WRITTEN BY: SCOTT RICHARDSON
FEATURED ROUTES
DOVER ISLAND, NOVA SCOTIA // THE WAVE (V5) ROUTE BETA T
HE WAVE IS PER- HAPS DOVER ISLAND’S MOST
COVETED BOULDER PROBLEM AND SETS THE STANDARD FOR V5 BOULDERING ACROSS THE PROVINCE. TRAVERS- ING THE LIP OF A BEAU- TIFUL GRANITE SCOOP - REMINISCENT OF THE WAVES THAT FREQUENT- LY CRASH AGAINST THE COAST OF DOVER ISLAND - WILL GET YOU A HOOT, A HOLLER AND A BREATH TAKING VIEW.
2011 JULY AUGUST |
The Wave begins from a sit start on a jug. Stand tall on positive feet and quickly switch your right hand to an under-cling. From the under-cling, cross straight up with your left hand to a decent side-pull edge. Work your feet up to the start hold and make two hand movements to traverse the lip to the right. Back step a large, prominent jug under the scoop and fire big with your right hand to a positive sloper. Match your feet, mov- ing your right foot to a far right smear on the scoop- face. Bring your left hand
to a sloping dish about one foot left of your right hand. From these holds, keeping your right foot smeared on the scoop-face, swing your left leg up to heel the tra- versing lip. Now the crux: rock hard over your left heel while mantling up over the lip. Once in a state of bal- ance, reach up with your left hand to a small but positive crimper. Crank hard on the crimp, mantle with your right and rock over your heel until you are able to stand up.
Congrats. You’ve just sent the wave!
climber MAGAZINEism | 37
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