and Wilson, the management team comprises Jack – the middle Stein son who has a degree in psychology – as executive chef, Ian Fitz- gerald as operations director and two opera- tions managers, Salar Brock and Sameer Shetty. “We don’t run the business like we used to
as we now have a wonderful operations team to do that for us,” says Rick. “We oversee the style and quality.”
In 2014, Ed – the first-born Stein son – joined the business to work alongside Jill, overseeing new outlet designs and ongoing refurbish- ments. His background as an artist and sculp- tor, studying historic stone carving, has stood him in good stead for designing the expanded Cornish Arms in St Merryn and helping create the look of the Winchester restaurant. With Charlie supplying a large bulk of the wine list for the various elements of the busi- ness, and talk among various family members that he may one day come on-board full time – possibly as food and beverage director – it seems possible that one day the entire family will be working together. Such unity after what at the time was a traumatic marriage break-up is to be admired. How has this been possible? Jill makes it very clear that getting through
the split is probably the greatest achievement of a career that has recently seen her achieve recognition in her own right. In 2012 she received a Lifetime Achievement Award at the Women 1st Shine Awards, and last year she was presented with an OBE for services to the restaurant industry. Jill has also estab- lished herself as a successful interior designer working for private clients beyond the Seafood Restaurant. “The split was very, very difficult,” she tells me. “I did think many times about taking the money and running and, in fact, so many people advised me to do that. But why should I? It was my business which I had been equally involved with Rick in building up. I had a huge emotional connection to the restaurants and didn’t want to let them go. What would I have done if I had gone? “I don’t think Rick wanted me to leave – it made it easier for him that I remained. I’d always looked after the business while he was away. I provided a sense of security and held it together. I eventually got over it and came to terms with what had happened. I decided I had to stay and preserve the businesses for the children. The split has made me stronger and tougher.” Certainly, the Stein sons recognise their
mother’s strength in keeping the company on an even keel. “It was tough for everyone, but Mum was absolutely dogmatic about keeping the company together,” says Ed. “The restaurants are Mum and Dad’s lives,” says Charlie. “I could not imagine it without both of them.”
Expanding ambitions
The business has not only remained united, but is now growing at pace, with five major projects launching within 18 months of each other. As well as the expansion of the Cornish Arms and opening of three restaurants (Fistral and Porthleven in Cornwall and Winchester),
36 | Best of Chef | March 2016
Curries, Fistral
www.thecaterer.com
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