That evening at Caribou Island, I consider how sea kayak wanderlust is my own
connection to C.J. Pim and the lightkeeper tribe. A 1914 obituary to my progenitor reveals the parallels between his life and mine: Pim “was very familiar with the coast for many miles on either side of the Sault,” reported the Sault Star. “Michipicoten Island, Gargantua, Dog River and other spots along the shore of Lake Superior saw him frequently.” These are some of my favorite haunts a century later. As the sun pulses on the horizon, the feeling of timelessness sparks a kinship with
my great-great grandfather. The gulls become silent and the lake laps rhythmically on the gravel shore; the beacon stirs to life, casting its first beams into the twilight; and somewhere in the distance, the sound of a freighter’s engine drones across the water.
Plan Your Trip
THE HISTORIC ISLAND NO. 10 LIGHT TOWER BEFORE ITS RESTORATION BY CLLS VOLUNTEERS. PHOTO: VIRGINIA MARSHALL
The Slate Islands were designated an Ontario provincial park in 1985, recognizing the archipelago’s unique geology, rare Arctic plants and woodland caribou. Though protected, it’s free to visit and registration isn’t required for overnight stays. The islands are the perfect destination for a base camp sea kayak trip. When the wind is blowing, stay inside the harbor and check out the abandoned mine shaft in Copper Harbour, troll for lake trout off of McColl Island and explore the century- old logging camp in Lawrence Bay, a caribou hotspot. In calm conditions, circumnavigate Patterson Island, visiting the lightstation, camping at Horace Cove and keeping your eyes peeled for shattercones—flaky, fractured rock formations created by meteorite impact. The Slates mark the eastern boundary of the Lake Superior National Marine Conservation Area, the world’s first freshwater preserve, which stretches over 150 kilometers west to the mouth of Thunder Bay. Porphyry Island and tiny Island No. 10 are just two of the hundreds of isles in this sprawling archipelago. Contact the Canadian Lighthouses of Lake Superior on Facebook to learn more about the area’s paddling opportunities and staying at the restored lightkeeper’s residence on Porphyry.
BEST SEASON
Cold water, strong winds and fog are Lake Superior staples. Mid-summer offers the best chance of fair, sunny weather and moderate winds.
ACCESS
The crossing to the Slate Islands is long and exposed to the brunt of Lake Superior’s wind and waves; paddlers without open water experience should contact Bluebird Charters
(
www.bluebirdcharterboat.com) for a boat shuttle. Journeying in the Lake Superior National Marine Conservation Area requires numerous open water crossings—including the
seven-kilometer vault from the Sibley Peninsula to Porphyry Island—and is recommended for experienced paddlers only.
GO GUIDED
Naturally Superior Adventures,
www.naturallysuperior. com; Superior Outfitters,
www.kayakrossport.ca.
WOODLAND CARIBOU PLY THE CALM CHANNELS OF THE SLATE ISLANDS. PHOTO: BRENDAN KOWTECKY
This article first appeared in the 2015 Spring issue of Adventure Kayak.
64 PADDLING MAGAZINE
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