START SOUTH C
NORTHERN WISDOM
anoeing an Arctic river is like canoeing a southern river, with these exceptions: the water is bitterly cold, a capsize can be fatal; distances are deceptive, an open
water crossing that appears to be a quarter-mile may be 20; continuous rapids, wider and more powerful rivers; there is no turning back once the floatplane drops you off. A decade of Quetico Park paddling won’t prepare you for the Far North. Build
experience slowly on challenging southern rivers, tripping when the water is cold and the weather is bad. It takes time to develop respect for a powerful northern river—don’t rush it. Heed the advice of experienced wilderness paddlers and read every canoeing book and publication. Most important, make your first trip with an experienced guide. If you have
strong basic canoeing skills, can turn the other cheek to bad weather and persistent bugs, and have a high tolerance for portaging long distances and paddling many hours without sleep—you’ll learn a lot and come back smiling. —CJ
SKILL ESSENTIAL F
irst you need to find the portage. On a river, if your map doesn’t show which side the portage is on, select the shore with lower elevation or less vegeta-
PORTAGE
tion. The path of least resistance is most often the correct one. For the same reason, portages are usually located on the inside of river bends. On a wilderness river where the trail is unsure, carry light gear over the portage,
then return for the canoes and heavy packs—or better yet, scout the trail before you portage anything. Portages on remote rivers within the treeline are seldom marked or maintained.
First walk the portage with a map, compass, GPS, folding saw and roll of yellow surveyor’s tape. Flag confusing turns and saw limbs that can hang up a canoe. Last person over the trail collects the yellow ribbon. In the treeless tundra, carry canoes and packs to a distant spot and stack in a pile.
Place paddles upright in the pile to act as flags. Continue portaging from pile to pile until everything is across. Choose brightly colored packs and canoes—drab colors blend into the tundra. Don’t carry a second pack on your chest—falls follow when you can’t see your feet.
Instead, equip your packs with tumplines so you can carry everything on your back. Pack in odd units—three or five packs per canoe, not two or four. This will equal-
ize the number of trips you and your partner make over the portage. Every team takes responsibility for the gear in their canoe and inventories it at the
end of the portage. To avoid confusion, don’t shift items from boat to boat or portage another canoe’s gear unless you tell the occupants. —CJ
PRO TIP BEAT THE
sure and bug dope. Two of the best non-toxic repellents
BUGS I
Forested areas generally have avoidable seasons for blackflies, mosquitoes, ticks, deerflies and horseflies. Above treeline, the paddling window enjoys little respite from the onslaught of blackflies. Wear loose, light-colored clothing and
a bug jacket. A bug tent will preserve your sanity in camp. Commercial bug awnings can be slung from trees; in the Arctic you’ll also need poles, extra guy-lines and hefty pegs. Biting insects are attracted to carbon di-
oxide and chemicals found in perspiration. If you sweat easily and work hard, the bugs will be worse. So, if none of this works... try carrying a live chicken under your arm while humming middle “C”. —HW
www.canoerootsmag.com 37
f you think the bugs are bad in south- ern paddling parks, don’t go to the Barren Lands—at least not without a good dose of know-how, self-compo-
are Repel oil of lemon eucalyptus and Biteblocker Organic Xtreme. I don’t use DEET—it melts plastic, so why would you put it on your skin? Both garlic and vitamin C have excel-
lent properties as antihistamines, relieving the effects of bug bites but doing little to prevent the actual bombardment. In fact, garlic, like bananas, contains potassium— and that’s a bug attractant. Research your choice of landscape.
PHOTO: BRYAN HANSEL
PHOTO: ANDREA TURNER-WILSON
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