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Step one is to set the foresight at zero and go onto the range at 200 or 300 yards and find an elevation zero. Then until you have more data set your sights at six minutes up from this number at 500 yards and nine and three quarter minutes up at 600 yards.


Step two is to wait until you are going to shoot at 900 yards, set your foresight at 25 minutes and come down a quarter minute from your 300 yard zero. You will then find your 900 yard elevation and can come up six and a quarter minutes when you go to 1000 yards.


As Oliver Twist found out, something is better than nothing and this evidently seems to work well for a lot of shooters. It does no more than can be achieved by having two foresights a ‘high’ one for short range and a ‘low’ one for long range and it does not take advantage of those five-minute (or better) adjustments that the manufacturer has built into the foresight.


Different height foresights – the high one gives 35 more MOA elevation than the low one, right.


What I am about to describe is important. Please make sure you understand it and act on it! To do it successfully you will need a rifle which is already zeroed or have access to a friend’s rifle which is zeroed.


Now remove your ‘up and down’ foresight from the rifle and assume your position. Get your friend to raise your rearsight until it comes directly in line with your eye. Get up and down again to check this until you are confident that when you are in a relaxed and comfortable position the rear-sight is in the optimum position for your shooting eye. Whatever setting is on the rear-sight is the optimum and, ideally, we don’t want to move more than three minutes from this setting.


Now measure the height of your friend’s foresight from the bore-line and also that of his rear-sight. Subtract the first figure from the second and refit your foresight so that it is as close as you can get to this value lower than your rear-sight. What you are trying to do is to get the sights in the same relative position to each other as your friend’s are. This will maximise your chances of getting onto the target when you go to the range for your zeroing session. When you do that you want to minimise the amount you move your rear-sight so you must move your foresight. If your group centre is more than 2½ minutes from the centre


37


DEALING WITH THE WIND


PART THREE


of the target, move the foresight down if the shots are going low and up, if they are going high. You now have two settings to record - your foresight setting and your rear-sight setting.


Assuming you have zeroed at 300 yards, you can then raise your elevation by the 6 minutes required at 500 yards by lowering your foresight by 5 minutes and raising your rear-sight by one minute. Similarly when you go from 500 to 600 yards and want to increase your elevation by 3¾ minutes you move your foresight down five minutes, which raises your elevation by five minutes and lower your rear-sight by 1¼ minutes to get the total raise of 3¾ .


Take a look at the table which is the Elevation table for my short range rifle (Barnard). Note that between 200 and 800 yards there is no more than 1½ minutes variation either side of a mean setting of 16½ minutes. This way, your rear-sight settings (and your head position) should all be within a three-minute bracket of your average setting, irrespective of the distance at which you are shooting.


Can you read the vernier in the picture below? The answer is actually minus three. Because this figure is a negative value, we need to read the vernier backwards. You should by now appreciate that this is not easy and it is probably a whole lot harder in the pouring rain when you are stressed out. I hope that you now understand why it is important that you avoid, at all costs, a situation where you end up with a negative value on your sight.


Next time we’ll zero the windage. Chris White


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