F&B
The Macallan in Macau T
One of whisky’s premier brands has planted a flag in Asia’s premier entertainment destinations, writes Marcin Miller
he world’s greatest whisky writer, the late Michael Jackson, introduced me to The Macallan. He was a huge fan and my view was that if it was good enough for him, it would certainly be good enough for me.
What became evident was that, more than any other whisky, The Macallan attracted zealots whose fanaticism verged on the religious. I would be invited to modest homes around the world where wide-eyed hosts would press another glass of golden liquid in my hand and ask me to join in silent reverence… The Macallan’s world-beating reputation was based on a winning formula; Golden Promise barley, small stills and – most importantly, in terms of influencing the whisky’s flavour – maturation in sherry butts. These are far more expensive than the ex-bourbon barrels that are used for 95% of Scotch whisky maturation but deliver more character. The result was a deep, rich, complex whisky with broad shoulders. For years my favourite single malt was Gran Reserva, an extreme 18-year-old Macallan matured in first-fill sherry casks for maximum extraction; it was a luxurious, voluptuous, almost syrupy monster that sealed my unwavering respect for the whisky-makers at Macallan. Of course, the world changes and in,
the world of whisky, the hardest part of production is prediction. Unlike vodka or gin when you can distil, bottle and sell immediately, whisky requires maturation time. So what you are distilling today will, in the case of single malts, not see the inside of a bottle for a dozen years or more. Twelve years ago emerging markets such as China, India and Russia had yet to, well, emerge. It would have taken a brave man to plan his stock model allowing for the massive growth these three countries alone have shown.
The Macallan became a victim of
its own success. The more people liked it, the more they purchased. The more consumers bought, the less whisky there was gently maturing in sherry butts. The Macallan applied the usual techniques for the control of supply and demand:
28 JUNE 2011
they put the prices up but this didn’t deter consumers – worse still, whisky collectors started stockpiling the stuff; mature stock was selling fast so the marketing people got very busy, launching a short-lived series of Replica bottlings and releasing Fine & Rare, a range of vintage malts at eye-watering prices. The Macallan could do no wrong. One day, someone in Perthshire had an idea. It
remains a topic of some conjecture whether it was borne of brilliance or desperation but, as they say, necessity is the mother of invention. As demand for Macallan matured in Spanish sherry oak soared, it was decided to launch a whole new range called The Macallan Fine Oak, the same spirit but with a greater reliance on ageing in American oak resulting in a distinctly lighter style. It has been a remarkable success, shooting the brand to number one single malt by value and number two by volume. Whisky bores and cynics might argue that the brand’s reputation was built on sherry whereas recent sales growth was built on Fine Oak. The two are very different but it was ever thus. Such is the brand’s success – particularly in Asia – that the world’s first Macallan Whisky Bar and Lounge has opened in the Galaxy Macau Resort (15th May 2011). The bar will offer the widest range of The Macallan, including many rarities, such as the Lalique 57 Years Old, and will showcase prestigious new expressions such as the Albert Watson bottlings in the Masters of Photography series. The Macallan Whisky Bar and Lounge in the Galaxay Macau resort is inspired by the traditional, comfortable Scottish manor house and is redolent of velvet and oak Victoriana; it is full of original British furnishings – all Chesterfields, Jacobean rugs and chandeliers made of antlers. According to a press release; “the prestigious and discreetly luxurious Macallan bar exudes a distinctive warmth for body and soul where the discerning guests can meld in and drink in the prestigious and cosy ambience, sipping the best of Scottish malt whisky, including of course, The Macallan Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky which is known as the most distinctive whisky in the world.” The Macallan has been smart enough to
recognise Macau as Asia’s entertainment centre and the brand has duly staked its claim by planting a flag.
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