[FISH FOOD]
Bouillabaisse T
A HUNGRY FISHERMAN’S FESTIVE HODGEPODGE BY VINCE PAQUOT
op chefs across France have been up in arms about bouillabaisse since the 18th century. Although the cooking method is generally
agreed upon, the ingredients—mainly the choice of fish and seafood— remain much-contested to this day. Regional partisans are adamant that theirs is the only true bouillabaisse. Dissenters are heathens for thinking otherwise. In North America, the controversy is moot because bouillabaisse
standards such as conger and gurnard don’t grace the local supermarket or fishing hole. Besides, long before the first edition of the Larousse Gas- tronomique was published, this savory dish was a staple dinner for poor fishermen from around the Mediterranean. Combining a hodgepodge assortment of whatever the sea provided, these resourceful folk threw together a wonderful family meal. Here’s a modern take on an old clas- sic. Use what fish you have and don’t worry what the neighbors think.
1 large onion, chopped 3 celery stalks and leaves, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced 1/2 cup olive oil 2 cups clam juice 1/4 cup chopped parsley 3 large tomatoes, diced 2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp thyme 1 tbsp paprika
1/2 cup dry white wine
In a pot, sauté lightly without browning the onion, celery and garlic. When they start to become translucent add the tomatoes. Sauté a min- ute or so longer until the tomatoes release their juices, then add the wine and clam juice. Add all other spices and olive oil. Bring to a boil and add fish and seafood. The secret is to boil the stew briskly for 15 minutes and then turn off the heat. Garnish: serve the bouillabaisse with crusty bread or toasted sourdough croutons.
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Dash of hot pepper sauce 3 pounds mixed fish (halibut, etc.) 1 pound lobster tails (optional)
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PHOTO: VIRGINIA MARSHALL
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