O WNER REPOR T – ESPER
proved its worth time and again in those busy shipping lanes in the Med and Red Sea.
Before we set off we thought it wise to get in a bit of sailing practice, and perhaps take an exam or two. Jamie had become a sailor a few years previously when he sold his business and gave up the rat race. Clutching his Competent Crew certifi cate he had undertaken a number of yacht deliveries around Europe, culminating in T e Big One across the Atlantic to Antigua, where he met Liz. She had also undertaken a Competent Crew course a few years earlier, but was really nothing more than a willing novice. Jamie immediately set about becoming ICC qualifi ed and taking the Yachtmaster theory exam, both of which he passed with fl ying colours. Cruising the Aegean Sea around Greece and Turkey was excellent boat-handling preparation for both of us.
Our time in Turkey allowed us to gain the confi dence to handle Esper in any condition. Jamie spent a summer sailing single-handedly around the Dodecanese, which boosted his confi dence and the trust that Liz has in him as a skipper. Despite being a ketch and cutter rigged, Esper’s four sails are easy to manage. T is is in part due to the in-mast furling of the main and mizzen, coupled with a high-cut Yankee and small stay-sail. Whoever came up with Esper’s fi nal sail plan was a genius; the sails set easily and it is oſt en unnecessary to use any kind of self-steering, mechanical or electronic.
It is worth noting that should you fi nd yourself in Turkish waters do not underestimate the skill and workmanship of the nautical industry there. More importantly you can make the most of a non-tidal sea, predictable winds, beautiful protected anchorages and superb hospitality from the local population. Turkey remains dear to our hearts and oſt en when we’re being chucked about in lumpy seas, or in windy anchorages with questionable holding, we think back to those lazy summers spent around the south western Turkish coastline.
Aſt er a two week delay brought on by bad weather, some last minute panicking as we anticipated the 4,500 mile journey ahead, and one fi nal engine check, we motored out of Marmaris Bay. Emotions were mixed. We would miss the friends we had made, but we longed to be sailing to new lands, new friends and new experiences.
T e crossing to Port Said was the longest continuous voyage we had made together, with four days and three nights of sailing. Like most crossings things went wrong: the mainsail traveller broke; the galley sink
drainer broke; we didn’t get much sleep and our navigation skills into Port Said leſt much to be desired. None of that matters though, when you’re riding three metre waves under the stars, catching and eating fresh dorado under sail and reaching speeds of over seven knots. Esper loved this fi rst taster of our voyage and equipped herself well.
Much has been written about transiting the Suez Canal and, having made the trip ourselves, we would advise that future passage-makers do the research, but take it all with a pinch of salt. It seems that even for our fearless rally leader, Lo Brust, who has been through the Suez more times than most of us have had fi sh dinners, it is a diff erent experience every time. T e one area that remains consistent is the predatory demands of the canal ‘pilots’ (one of whom is required to be on your yacht for each of the two legs) who will ask for a ‘present’ at the end of the journey. Like everyone else in our rally, and everyone else we have spoken to who has taken their yacht through this man-made wonder, we were badgered, scolded, and bombarded by these individuals for the ubiquitous Egyptian ‘baksheesh’. It is quite a harsh introduction to Egyptian culture, but we are happy to say that it is not indicative of the people of the country as a whole.
Halfway through the Canal, yachts are required to make a stop at Ismailia, the jewel of the Suez. It is a warm and gentle town and a peaceful place to rest aſt er the hustle and bustle of Port Said. It is also the best place from which to hire a taxi and spend a day or two in Cairo. Don’t let anyone tell you otherwise: the Pyramids do not disappoint – far from it! Even through our modern jaded eyes and the lifelong
over-worked symbolism of all things Egyptian, they are magnifi cent, otherworldly and splendidly breathtaking. T e Egyptian Museum too, although its method of display owes much to the early Victorians, is full of mouth-watering treasures. Drag yourself from each dusty showcase, with its sporadic hand-written information cards, to the next priceless treasure.
We thought the exorbitant price demanded to see the surprisingly well-displayed ancient mummies was worth every piastre. If you plan to visit this region please don’t miss St Katharine’s (she of the wheel) Monastery, the setting alone is enough to take your breath away.
Aſt er the confi nement of the Canal, and the suff ocating bureaucracy therein, we took off with delight from Port Suez.
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