here are only two destinations when travelling in the south-east region of Alaska: north and south. To the north
are the colossal ice floes of the Hubbard Glacier, mighty Chugach National Forest and buzzing Anchorage, with its mini-Manhattan grid of banks and souvenir shops. Southbound, where we are heading, is a world of coastal rainforests, legendary mountain ranges, bear-populated islands and finger-like inlets. These are places where roads can’t reach and planes seldom come. Which is why I’ve decided to come by ship.