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68 restaurant review I


do not believe it can be long before the innovation and creativity, exquisite


presentations and intriguing combinations at twenty_seven by Jamie Rogers are recognised with a coveted Michelin star. Twenty_seven has garnered an impressive array of very well deserved awards since opening. Before presuming prices are eye-wateringly high, reflecting the supreme quality and freshness of locally sourced produce, many hours of skilled preparation for each element of a dish, the imagi- nation and expertise of every plate served … consider you can current- ly enjoy 3 courses for just £20! There are a variety of offers


available until the end of February for locals, OAPs and those seeking his exquisite Taster experience, where nothing is compromised, except the cost. “I have been given wonderful


chances and opportunities along the way which have helped me turn my life around, realise my dream of becoming a Chef and owning my own restaurant. Since opening twenty_seven this community has welcomed and supported me – I wanted to give something back”, Jamie’s simple, sincere explanation. The only way to truly appreciate


what Jamie and his talented sous, Dan BY AMANDA BLOOMER TWENTY_SEVEN BY JAMIE ROGERS


(who surely could command Head Chef at most venues) create is to feast there yourselves but read on… Taster Menus are 6 or 8 courses


– we enjoyed all 8, sadly foregoing its accompanying wine flight as we were driving, choosing glasses of Fabrizio Vella for Su; ‘Crazy Cat’ Rioja


“there is an unashamed confidence to his menus”


for me. Both are natural wines; Su’s Sicilian displaying the richness of dark chocolate, hints of spice and luscious dark fruit notes expected from the Nero D’Avola grape; my Gatito Loco all fun and freshness


not found in traditional style oaked wines from the region. An exciting new approach produces wines delivering crunchy bright red and black fruit flavours with a smooth finish. A ‘beautifully textured’ (Su)


French Onion Soup spooned through densely pungent light-as- air Smoked Cheese Foam topped by crunchy Gruyere Crumb, with Onion and Thyme Petit Pain proved a delightful start, followed by Salt Baked Celeriac with its intriguing array of delicate accompaniments - creamy blue cheese crème brûlée, crunchy caramelised pecans, ethereal parmesan crisps; ... and more. Each element added interest, texture or contrast, nothing extraneous.


Photos by Natalie Moore


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