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4 The Polygon, London SW4 0JG


www.trinityrestaurant.co.uk


TRINITY O


ftentimes I review new res- taurants so don’t often get to


a restaurant as well established as Trinity. With the addition of a new floor, ‘Upstairs at Trinity’, my luck was in. Hopefully next year, they will dig out the cellar! Chef/owner Adam Byatt has long


been recognized as one of London’s top chefs. He also has his finger on London’s pulse. Informal, with tapas sized plates meant for sharing, high communal tables and stools all tick the trendy boxes. Personally, I look forward to the return of private tables and my feet on the floor, but never mind. The food is exceptional and I would happily eat it standing, sitting or bent over backwards. Byatt commissioned Icelandic


born artist, Kristjana S Williams to create a piece for the new space. Good move! Williams covered one wall with 3 ‘islands’ of brightly colored flora and fauna set behind a patchwork of hexagonal glass. The meaning behind her apparent whimsy is inspired by the artistic plating of food. In 3D, it invites you


44 The American


Reviewed by Michael M Sandwick


to look deeper. There is something primordial about it. It conjures images of Pangaea breaking apart, sending all the earth’s edible species on their separate journeys, some of which end happily in the capable hands of Chef Byatt and onto my plate. Brilliant! DOC burrata, spiced aubergine,


chili, mint and fried bread (£9) was equally inspired. The highest quality cheese, eggplant bursting with fla- vor and a bit of salty crunch. Soused and charred mackerel, cucumber and chamomile (£8) reminded me of the glories of pick- led herring. The char added a new dimension and the cucumber cream made it sing. BBQ pork belly, cockles, saffron and black olive (£12), a Portuguese classic, hits new heights. The belly, cooked to tender perfection was pressed, giving it a terrine-like con- sistency and the sauce, silky and sublime. Fish stew for two, BBQ scallop and


seaweed aioli (£32) is Byatt’s bouilla- baisse. The presentation is stunning


with scallops and oysters in their shells. Full of fish and a briny bisque, it’s a super dish though the price put it outside the upstairs ethos. Red deer loin, chestnuts,


arti-


choke and truffle (£15) is Byatt at his best. After several incarnations, I believe it has achieved Nirvana! Per- fectly pink venison, the raw earthy crunch of Jerusalem artichoke, ceps and truffle emulsion is autumn on a plate. To die for! We chose a St. Veran and Pinot


Noir by the glass in an attempt to pair our wines to our menu. This proved a mistake as neither wine lived up to the food. Next time I will choose a bottle from the excep- tional wine list though I would pre- fer to see flights of wine on offer. Set custard, quince and praline


(£5) was sweet and sweet, offering neither contrast nor the flavor bomb I had come to expect. Chocolate cre- mosa and salt caramel ice cream (£6) was back on track to cloud 9. Love at first bite. Service is top. Now, about that


cellar…


Left: Adam in the upstairs kitchen


A plate of European cheeses


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