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WINTERISING


Winterising Outdoor Pools


AS THE NIGHTS START TO DRAW IN AND THE DAYS START TO GET COLDER, FOR SOME POOL OWNERS AFTER WHAT HAS BEEN A LONG OVERDUE DECENT SUMMER, SWIMMING WILL BE PUT FORGOTTEN DURING THE WINTER MONTHS, BUT WHAT CAN’T BE FORGOTTEN IS THE POOL ITSELF. IT’S VITAL TO PREPARE ADEQUATELY FOR THE COLDER MONTHS AND NOW IS THE TIME TO START THINKING ABOUT WINTERISING SWIMMING POOLS


By Jon Wadeson


fter an amazing summer filled with glorious sunny days which saw many outdoor pools finally get the use they were intended for and with warm weather still being predicted by forecasters, albeit in periods of days now rather than weeks, it’s a shame to be writing about closing pools down, however, needs must and by the time this issue gets into the hands of readers, thoughts will already be turning to winterising outdoor swimming pools. After all, if 2014’s weather is as good as this year’s, nobody wants to be greeted by a green pool next spring!


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The winterisation of a swimming pool is a relatively straightforward procedure, that is of course if you know what you are doing. However, pool owners must be made aware that there is a little more to closing down their pool for winter than meets the eye and the operation is best left for experts or at least that they are guided through the steps with expert tuition because when winterising is done correctly and pools are opened next year, they will require the minimal amount of preparation before they can be used by their owners. First off there is of course a bit of work to


44 October 2013 SPN


do in getting the pool ready for close down. All ‘summer’ equipment, solar cover, vacuum hose, automatic pool cleaners, stainless steel ladders etc should be cleaned and stored away. Now is the time to advise on replacement of any equipment that is not up to par and can be ordered ready for delivery when the pool is re-opened in the spring. Backwash the filter thoroughly and drop water level to below skimmer weir. This does not apply to pools situated in high water table areas and some companies do prefer to keep the pool completely filled. Customers should always be advised never to drain pools completely whatever the finish.


Remove skimmer weir and basket and store in dry conditions.


Using dry acid and dry alkali as necessary adjust the water to between 7.2 and 7.6. Shock the pool to at least 10ppm using shock granules or liquid chlorine. The level must hit 10ppm or the ‘shock’ will not take place. Add long life algaecide and allow pump to run for at least eight hours to circulate and distribute the chemicals fully.


Ensure exposed pipe work, pumps, heaters etc are completely drained down. If the pool


has an automatic chemical feeder, tablets should be removed and the system carefully flushed through.


Equipment that cannot be removed from the plant room should be sprayed with a moisture repellent spray to give added protection through the closed season. Finally a winter cover should always be fitted to prevent leaves and other algae encouraging ‘foodstuffs’ entering the pool. Nobody can predict what the colder months have in store for outdoor pool owners but hard winters are not as common as they once were, however if a severely cold snap does strike it can cause real harm to liner, painted or tiled pools. It is relatively simple to avoid damage by tying a row of plastic containers that have been half filled with sand or anti-freeze across the middle of the pool. This will act as a frost and ice break and relieve pressure on the pool sides should ice form. Never break up surface ice as the sharp edges could damage liner pools. The pool should be checked regularly (every 4-5 weeks or so) to ensure that the pH remains within the parameters and that the chlorine level does not drop below 5ppm.


www.swimmingpoolnews.co.uk


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