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dens until they learn to build their own. Aiming for Lake Plastira and the remote


but elegant Hotel Nevros, we wheeled in at a fog-draped mountain bike shop on the theory that friendly people around the world gather in motorcycle and bicycle shops. With little shared language, we sat with Dimitrios, Dimitrios and Katerina, who poured us cognac and brought us Turkish halvah to taste while we laughed our way through a faltering discussion. Like most of their countrymen, the three were completely done with politi- cians. They were drinking the day away while rain fell outside, and we had to leave while I could still ride safely. Off to the south, we rolled onto


Lefkada Island, where the GPS tem- porarily lost its mind and sent us down a pedestrian promenade to a stop 10 feet above the Ionian Sea, smack in the middle of the lunch crowd. A five-point U-turn and a first-gear crawl past shops and bars put it right, but the flop sweat flowed like one of the thousands of Greek springs. At Hotel Santa Marina, we dined outdoors high above the sea, relaxing over spicy tzatziki and rusks, Greek salad lush with feta and the world’s best tomatoes, herb- grilled chicken and cold beer. A little further south, Porto Katsiki beach


– literally “port of goats” – is tiny, a cliff- backed bowl that catches and holds the sun. At what some call Europe’s best beach, the morning crowd was small, and the heart- breaking beauty and water as blue as a Bes- sie Smith set-list made us all feel connected, children of the same compassionate earth, washed by a perfect sea. Until 11:30, which is when three party boats steamed in on us, running their specially engineered prows up on the pebble beach, dropping ladders and disgorging 200-plus crazed party peo- ple each. We hurried to leave before we had to fully confront the desecration. Across the big bridge and now on the


Peloponnese, we stopped to take in ancient Olympia, where the sun’s rays ignite the Olympic torch every four years, then twisted through more mountains to Gytheio, old Sparta’s seaport and the Aktaion Resort, a luxe spa offering both pool and ocean swimming within 100 yards of one another.


Finally, we hustled across the Corinthos


canal separating the Peloponnese from the rest of Greece and into Athens at 140 kph on big roads, then navigated through the city’s sea of scooters. Diamandis and Erin, the folks at MotoVoyager who made our


“kilometer


eaters,” a real compliment.


Going on, he told me I was a bit of a fraud, because I took a shortcut. Then he gave us a trophy he had made with a plaque that says we conquered Greece on two wheels. It was a typically Greek exchange — honest and thought-provoking, contradictory but hugely pleasant. Our straight- forward American response was to take the MotoVoyager crew out for spicy pizza and icy beer. To get there, fly to Athens, of


Left, Remnants of Delphi, home to the famous oracle, cling to the mountain above olive groves. Above, Athens is one of world's most cosmopolitan cities – witness this display of flags, banners and textiles.


arrangements and took exceptional care to see that we had first-class accommodations, greeted us with relief, happy we were safely off adventure road. Diamandis named us


course. Many flights will be over- night. Make your arrangements through MotoVoyager (moto-voy- ager.gr). They can accommodate escorted groups of up to about six people for anything from one to 14 nights. Seriously consider the self- guided option if you are at all adven- turous. Diamandis and Erin will ask for your preferences and use them to carefully customize accommoda- tions, restaurants and even routes. They sincerely want you to enjoy Greece and they know the country well. Trust the GPS and Diamandis’


coordinates. Avoid June, July and August. Recommended: for 1 rider, the F 800 GS, and for two-up, the R 1200 GS. Have your skills well honed.


34 YEARS OF GREAT FOOD


AND FUN 34th ANNUAL


NEBRASKA BMW NIGHTRIDERS HUSKERALLY


August 12th – 14th 2016 Location:


Franklin County Fairgrounds Franklin, Nebraska


Contact: Jayney Solo 3608 S 87th Ave Omaha NE 68124 402-393-1297, 403-676-1739 • bmwnightriders@cox.net


CAMPING, LOTS OF GOOD SHADE, HOT SHOWERS, FRIDAY STEW POTS, SATURDAY MORNING BREAKFAST, SATURDAY NIGHT SUPPER, MUSIC FRIDAY AND SATURDAY NIGHT, CHILDREN’S FIELD EVENTS. AIR CONDITIONED ENCLOSED DINING AND MEETING AREAS!!! RALLY PINS TO THE FIRST 200 IN ATTENDANCE.


Omaha Lincoln Kearney I-80 Exit 272 South


June 2016 BMW OWNERS NEWS


97


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