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After a bit of cleaning, the components on the back of the transmission are more easily identifiable. The clutch output (or slave) cylinder is at top, the end of the transmission output shaft is at right, and the gear position potentiometer (still dirty in this photo) is between and below them. The potentiometer is a $160 part, so it’s worth removing it to check it over and clean it.


doesn’t have a specification for changing, flushing or bleeding the clutch fluid. Viewed from behind the rear shock, the back of my transmis-


sion was a gooey black mess. The up close view wasn’t much better. The output cylinder leak got fluid everywhere, and that fluid attracted dirt and road grit, but some attention with a brush and a little cleaning solvent, followed up by a rag and a toothbrush to get into the crevices, soon had the transmission housing looking good again. While I was there, I took the time to clean and inspect the transmission output shaft splines. The exhaust (which was still off after my cylinder head adventure in Part Three), swing arm, drive shaft and final drive don’t have to come off to replace the output cylinder, but taking them off makes everything a lot easier. Doing so makes it a snap to clean and lubricate the output shaft splines. Removing the clutch output cylinder was surprisingly easy. The


clutch hose fitting comes off with a 13mm box-end wrench; a gush of blue oil will come out, so have a drip pan in place. Unless they are damaged, there’s no need to replace the banjo bolt (p/n 34 32 7 667 316, retail $5.71) or bleeder plug (p/n 34 32 8 548 982, retail


The transmission output shaft splines before cleaning.


$13.75) and cap (p/n 34 21 2 314 001, retail $5.23). You’ll need two new copper crush washers for the banjo bolt, though (Gasket ring – A10X13.5-CU; p/n 07 11 9 963 072, retail $0.50 each), to put it all back together. Once the clutch hose is off, there are two T30 bolts holding the


output cylinder in place. They shouldn’t be on there super tight, the spec is only 8 Newton-meters of torque. Loosen both of them a little, and then push the output cylinder towards the front of the bike as you remove them. The spring inside the cylinder and the pushrod going into the clutch will try to pop the cylinder out of your hand, and more of that blue fluid will come out as you disengage it. You can use circlip pliers to disassemble the output cylinder, but


the piston can’t be rebuilt or bought separately, so the only reason to disassemble it is for recycling purposes—the piston and the spring are steel, but the housing is aluminum. My clutch output cylinder hadn’t failed completely, but it was well


on its way to doing so. I worried my clutch might need replacing even though there wasn’t much fluid outside the piston, so the only thing left to do was extract the pushrod. I held my breath, closed one eye and pulled it out in one smooth motion. Dry. Totally, completely and entirely dry. This meant I didn’t need


a clutch! If the output cylinder fails completely, clutch fluid will flow right down along the pushrod, getting into the clutch itself, contami- nating the clutch plate (sometimes called the friction disc) and


June 2016 BMW OWNERS NEWS 53


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