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Food and drink 


A DIY drinking revolution


With the demise of countless pubs across the county, Dawn Kingsford has been finding out about the latest drinking revolution, as DIY-ers make their mark with the rise in micro pubs and breweries.


The first micro-pub in Kent threw open its doors six years ago, and since then their collective turnover is frothing over at more than £20million. A drop in the ocean compared to the big brewery-owned outlets, but the popularity of partaking of ale in these personalised pubs is attracting a welcome new stream of regulars, served by a band of micro-breweries, which have grown in number in the last year by more than in the previous 10. Martyn Hillier, from Herne, who heads up the Micro-pub Association, says the concept first fizzed into action following a change in licensing laws in 2005 and, today, the county boasts 31 micro-pubs (most in East Kent) and about the same number of micro-breweries – up from just two in 1990. Martyn, who turned a butcher’s shop in Herne into what is now regarded as the birthplace of Britain’s micro-pub revolution, believes micro really is beautiful. He adds: “Their success reflects the enthusiasm of their owners, who are caring hosts, conversation starters, sources of local information and promoters of real ale. There is no set formula or design, though all are small. At best, like a traditional local, they strengthen a community by being a


Historic hop recipe


Phil and Debbie Goacher resurrected Maidstone’s brewing tradition by opening Goachers micro-brewery in 1983. Prior to that, the town boasted four independent brewers, the last closing in 1972. Goachers’ Ales is now thriving in Tovil, using only Kent hops and a full-mash


brewing and open fermentation process. Beers also have no added sugars or artificial colouring. Howard Goacher (pictured with dad Phil) said: “Our commitment to excellence and traditional methods produces ales of distinction and character, sought after in this increasingly standardised world.”


forum for discussing local issues, creating friends and local connections.” His pub, The Butcher’s Arms, is now a thriving business and like so many other micro-pubs shares a fascinating history of its own, with other outlets including The Firkin Frog – a former kitchen showroom in Herne Bay, and revealing names such as the Potting Shed in Hythe and Ales of the Unexpected in Margate.


Mr Hillier says: “By keeping things simple, my aim of attracting like-minded beer drinkers to a snug bar, serving beer straight from the cask came together.” And a growing number of micro-


breweries in Kent have woken up to the fact that a micro-pub can sell twice as much beer as an ordinary pub because, primarily, that is all it sells…and with almost one micro-brewery to every micro-pub, the choice of ales is massive and fast moving. Mr Hillier adds: “Micro-pubs can reflect and respond to their customers views quickly. It’s a virtuous circle.” In some areas micro-pubs have put the fizz back in to a community, with regeneration grants often available. So, if you have an empty shop in your area, why not think about transforming it into your own village pub?


Goody Ales


Teachers Pete and Karen Goody use Kent hops to create beers at their micro-brewery in a former farm building at Herne. Their bitter, Genesis, was named


Best Kentish Beer and the Best Hopped Beer in the county in 2014. Goody Ales is open every month for


its Firkins at Full Moon celebration. www.goodyales.co.uk


The Caveman Brewery


The Caveman Brewery is beneath the George and Dragon pub in Swanscombe, less than a mile from where the Palaeolithic Swanscombe Skull was found in 1935. One of the smallest micro-breweries in


Kent, with all its brewing activities below ground, it was established to provide an ‘on-tap’ source of ale for the pub above. Now, the flavour-led brewery, uses English malt and hops to create its Best Bitter; fruity American vines for its pale ale, and German malt in its stout. Beers are available throughout Kent. www.cavemanbrewery.co.uk


Mid Kent Living 31


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