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20 Fenchurch Street, London EC3M 3BY


skygarden.london/fenchurch-restaurant


FENCHURCH RESTAURANT 20


Fenchurch Street, aka The Walkie Talkie, has had so


much bad press, referred to as “bru- tally dominant” and blamed for melting cars on the street below. Regardless, the top 3 fl oors, Sky Gar- den, is absolutely amazing. Filled with greenery, two restaurants and an enormous bar, it boasts 360 degrees of spectacular views. Run by Rhubarb, Fenchurch Restaurant is at the very top. In more ways than one. I was invited to try the new 6


course tasting menu with paired wines at £109 (£70 without wine). Well, I had nothing better to do! Arrive in good time (there is a


security check). Once in, it’s a quick, smooth ride up to the 35th fl oor and what has to be one of the best ways to see London. The din and energy of Skypod Bar is electric. A further two fl ights up is Fenchurch. Swank. The feel of exclusivity. The top. The staff are young, beautiful, confi dent and pro. They know what they're doing and who they are serving. Moi!


42 The American Our menu was pre-ordained, so


we got right to business with a glass of R De Ruinart and some of the best focaccia I have ever had, served with homemade butter. There is also an à la carte and a vegetarian tasting menu. The 6 courses were all top quality. The wines were well paired, good rather than spectacular. The sommelier was super. Taramasalata with crispy eel and


a purple potato chip with creamy cheddar delighted my taste buds. And they were just teasers! The fi rst ‘real’ course was chopped mackerel with pickled cockles, sea herbs and oyster cream. This won the presenta- tion prize. Gorgeous in a scallop shell on a bed of ice. The sweet-ish Riesling was a good pairing, off ering contrast, though I prefer my Riesling dry. Venison and grouse ragout, like a game bolognaise with cheese and tiny pasta, was delicious. A Pierre Sourdais Chinon had a great nose but didn’t quite deliver on the fi nish. Cornish turbot was the evening’s


Reviewed by Michael M Sandwick


highlight. Mussels, seaweed, lemon, fennel, and the most divine broth. Paired with a Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, a super wine with hints of apple and citrus. Goodwood Estate Lamb was another stunner with a glass of Camins del Priorat, a robust blend of Grenache, Carignan and Caber- net Sauvignon. Equally complex, the dark fruit, chocolate and tobacco of the wine and the garlic, artichoke, basil and olive jus made this a fl avor bombshell. Pre-dessert (don’t you just love that?) was a coconut cream with fab lime granita and a Vidal Ice Wine. This Canadian wine is made after the grapes have naturally fro- zen, giving them incredible intensity. Finally, a chocolate & honey-


comb ganache, banana yoghurt ice cream and a dessert wine from the same region as Amarone followed by a lemon pâte de fruit and a sensa- tional salty caramel chocolate truffl e was defi nitely gilding the lily. Or should I say, over the top!


Goodwood Estate Lamb


Strawberry Doughnuts


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