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F


orget the newfangled ‘limequat’ or ‘papple’ (yes, they’re both genuine hybrids); who needs them, when we already have such mighty fruit as the quince growing in our back yards? The quince has long been an important part of our culinary history here in the British Isles – Edward I planted some here in 1275 – but records of its existence date back way further, and some


even argue that the forbidden fruit, taken by naughty Eve, was almost certainly not an apple but a quince. This big bottomed gal is from the same family as apples and pears and comes


in a variety of shades, from golden green to mellow yellow, all with a deliciously sweet,heady perfume that partnerswell with the last of the season’s partridge. There are two types of common partridge – red legged and grey – and here


Steve Shore has opted for the grey. Its flavour is mild and delicate in comparison to, say, grouse or woodcock. “Choose a red wine with a light tannin, such as a French Syrah or Australian Shiraz, for this dish,” suggests Steve. “I like to use veal stock normally for the jus, but chicken will work just as well.” ✱ To see more of Steve’s recipes, visit www.adavid.co.uk


with CHESTNUTS PARTRIDGE ROASTED


and QUINCE (SERVES 1)


INGREDIENTS 1 quince


275ml stock syrup


100g fresh chestnuts 1 fresh partridge (ask


for the wishbone to be removed, but reserve to make the sauce)


1 sprig of thyme 2 garlic cloves, crushed


2 streaky bacon rashers


110ml chicken stock 2 tbsp Madeira


100g salted butter METHOD


– Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4. – Peel the quince, core and quarter, and blanch for 2 minutes in the stock syrup until just soft. – Peel the chestnuts and roast in the oven for 5 minutes. – Turn the oven up to 200C/400F/gas mark 6. – Prepare the partridge by placing the thyme and garlic in the cavity and wrapping the bacon over the breasts. Roast in the oven for 10 minutes. – Remove from the oven and carefully remove the undercarriage of the partridge using scissors. You can also remove the legs and trim the bone for presentation purposes, but it’s not essential. – Place the removed undercarriage in a pan with the wishbone, stock and Madeira and simmer until infused and reduced. – Pan fry the roasted chestnuts and poached quince pieces in the butter until golden brown. – Plate the partridge with the chestnuts, quince and jus, and serve.


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