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necessary but now I needed a complete loom. The previous restorer had made a loom but had not allowed for flashers or wiring of the headlamps from the SLC2 switch and the original 1933 wiring only had one fuse in the car-not a good idea, so I dismantled the old loom and made a new one using where possible the available wires and included an additional fuse box with 6 fuses. When connecting trafficators and flashers from a single switch it is necessary to fit two flasher units otherwise the trafficator operates in time with the flasher! All the new lights and flasher units had been purchased from the same supplier but with the wiring completed only one flasher unit would flash. The same happened with a replacement flasher and I began to think that there was a fault in my loom so when the third unit arrived and the same happened again I set up the components away from the car but still the flasher would not flash. It was only when the fourth unit arrived, this time of different manufacture that everything worked-no wonder it takes so long to restore a vehicle!


specific size of wheel and although it was correct for an 18" wheel the large overcentre clamp would not close, possibly because of the cross section of the tyre. The cover is made in two halves with a joining piece which acts as the ‘hinge’, by making a longer hinge section and repositioning the mounting points for the clamp I eventually made it work. I had run the engine by just wiring what was


mounting and the spare wheel cover which I bought separately from the car and was originally an accessory manufactured by Wilmot Breedon. The mounting bracket had suffered serious corrosion and took a lot of cleaning up. It looked too long and only had twomounting bolts which put considerable strain on the interior woodwork and I swapped it for a shorter four mounting bolt version but then discovered that it needed to be a certain length to allow the number plate to sit in the correct position and also to allow the spare wheel cover to open so it was swapped back for the original butmodified for four mounting bolts. The spare wheel covers were made to suit a


obtainable incorporating flashing indicators and to mount them on an offside bracket similar to the original and a nearside bracket made as simply as possible but one that also mounted on the frame rather than on the aluminium body, with separate mountings for the reflectors on each wing. Last part on the back end was the spare wheel


because it was thrown away years ago is the cover for the loom over the steering column. It seemed to me that it definitely had a purpose other than aesthetic as it contains the loom as it passes between the pedals and stops any chance of wires getting tangled in your feet!


One part that is often overlooked probably


pans repaired, cleaned and painted. For anyone not familiar with the seat arrangement in these early cars it is rather unusual to say the least in that the seat back is mounted on two rails with bolt holes at intervals, so seat adjustment can only be made by unbolting and repositioning in another bolt hole. The seat cushion on the other hand is not adjustable and is partly below the floor line in the ‘pan’ which due to the chassis rail varies in depth from nothing next to the rail to about 2" near the prop shaft. This arrangement presumably allowed extra thickness for the cushion but the cushions on my car looked original but did not follow the shape of the pan. After discussions with a number of owners of


restored-well you have to start somewhere-but some time later I discovered that they were not as fitted originally but as the original type is almost impossible to find I decided to stay with those that came with the car, however these proved to require some modification as they projected too far into the car and would have obstructed the roof lining-more work! Inside new floor boards were made and the seat


The trafficators were one of the first items I


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