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Jane Austen loved Christmas but...

White soup and a saddle of lamb was the order of the day in Jane Austen’s day. Amanda Cornwall takes a peek at Yuletide in 1808

Christmas starts in August and ends on Christmas Day about tea time - or so it would seem if you studied the festive aisles of some supermarkets. But even in the last 25 years the season has shifted forwards and ends in effect for many on New Year’s Day just seven days later. Traditionally Christmas began on Christmas Eve - or if you prefer on Advent Sunday which this year is on Sunday 2 December. Technically Advent Sunday is the first day of the liturgical year in the church and is the fourth Sunday before Christmas Day meaning it can fall on any date between 27 November and 3 December. So starting to decorate and prepare for Christmas in late November isn’t quite as modern as we may think although most resist the temptation to put up any decorations and buy a tree until Christmas is only days away. Despite the falling away of the festive season when the bells stop ringing in the new year, most people still equate the end of the season with Twelfth Night and the 12 days of Christmas.

Charles Dickens is often credited with inventing our modern Christmas with his novelette The Christmas Carol but of course the season of celebration has been around since the Celts and before. Perhaps an interesting

period is the generation before Dickens penned the story of Scrooge and Tiny Tim as Georgian England was still within touching distance of a more ancient past. A time before Christmas trees, Christmas cards and even turkey dinners.

For centuries Easter had been the larger of the two festivals heralding as it

does not only the crucifiction and resurrection of Jesus Christ - but also of Spring.

In the period around the time of the Strawberry Line District’s most celebrated female writer of the Georgian era that of Hannah More, Christmas is certainly very different. Ms More was known for her charitable work with the poor of Cheddar and the setting up of Sunday Schools in the area as well as women’s benefit clubs despite the fact she was in many ways a fierce conservative.

The playwright, evangelist and philanthropist recorded a meeting with Jane Austen in Bristol in her diaries which gives an idea of the period we are looking at the turn of the 18th and 19th centuries just before the Industrial Revolution. The Strawberry Line District was then a rural backwater providing produce locally as well as for the growing city of Bristol with its docks, industries and coal mines - and for the markets of Highbridge, Bridgwater and Wells. There were no trains - but the roads were finally being improved with a mixture of gravel and loose chippings, so that large numbers of carts could travel up and down what was to become the A37, the A38 and the A370.

Most people walked everywhere or if they had a horse rode. So inevitably socialising was kept local. Christmas meals were improved with the arrival of new imports from hops to make beer, cherries and wine from France, oranges from Spain, and rum and sugar from the West Indies. Goose, duck, lamb, pork and rabbit were more likely to be eaten as the central meal along with a type of Christmas pudding steamed in muslim and various pies including the seasonal mincemeat. In Pride and Prejudice we read of a saddle of lamb

being consumed at Christmas, while Jane Austen wrote in 1808 of her desire to drink French wine and to eat ice cream and to be above vulgar economy.

White soup also features in Pride and Prejudice when Bingley decides to throw a ball for the local gentry much to the disgust of his sisters - and insists Lydia Bennet names the date. It’s a dish that’s long overdue for a comeback. Originated in France it was known as Pottage a la Reine (Queen’s Soup) and it consisted of two stocks - one of almonds and the other of chicken.

Pickles, smoked hams, Cheddar cheese, sweets and nuts were put out on sideboards while holly and mistletoe were used to decorate the houses and cottages of the area. Although Christmas trees were a feature in Prussia, England had to wait until Prince Albert introduced the custom some decades later. And it seems that the country in 1800 was yet to embrace stockings and Santa Claus which came over from Holland in the years that followed. Father Christmas however was part of the folklore of the season - and had been around since at least medieval times dressed in green and covered in mistletoe - providing a link to a pre-Christian past.

And so with the table set, the fire stoked up and mass attended the festivities could begin with feasting and parties for several days - marked with a lot of walking to visit relatives close by. On Twelfth Night celebrations included games

...was glad when the relatives went home

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16 Strawberry Line Times December 2012-January 2013 Strawberry Line Times December 2012-January 2013

Pictured inset far left is Hannah More and also closer is Jane Austem. Above is a photograph by Elaine Turner to promote the Axbridge Pageant in 2010 - and shows some rather merry Georgians who may have been sipping a bit too much Christmas spirit

involving a Lord of Misrule, the choosing of children to be a king and a queen while charades were shouted out, punch and cider were knocked back and a Twelfth Night Cake was munched. The next working day was known as Plough Monday when reluctantly the majority of ordinary folk had to go back to work.

For Jane Austen it was also a relief. After having put up with relatives descending on her for several days she spoke for many when she wrote to her sister Cass: ‘When you receive this, our guests will be all gone or going; and I shall be left to the comfortable disposal of my time, to ease of mind the torments of rice puddings and apple dumplings and probably to regret that I did not take more pains to please them all.’

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LIz Scott’s family have farmed on the Mendips since Victorian times when steam trains ran along the Strawberry Line. Her beef herd of Aberdeen Angus are grazed on the Somerset Levels near Axbridge and on the Mendips above the town. Elizabeth follows the same traditional farming methods that her great grandfather used a hundred years ago resulting in a quality beef that is rich on flavour beloved by those who enjoy real taste.

The meat is hung for 2-3 weeks in the farm’s cold storage unit at the farm shop. A full range of meat cuts is always available.

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Visit the farm shop with sausages, steaks, plus organic chicken, duck, pork and lamb; plus sauces, honey, eggs and well-seasoned hardwood in loads or in bags. Enter the Square and turn down Moorland Street and keep going.

See us at the Bristol Farmers’ Market in Corn Street every Wednesday and at monthly farmers’ markets in Axbridge, Nailsea, Cheddar, Clevedon, Burnham-on-Sea, Brent Knoll and Bleadon.

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Moorland Farm Shop, Moorland Street, Axbridge, Somerset BS26 2BA.

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Or email the farm at:

Tel: 01934 733341 17

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