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4 global suppliers share their visions of innovation in sun protection
It’s widely recognised that registering a new UV filter is almost as long and complex a process – with a lot of features in common – as registering a new drug. However, the rate of new product launches in the solar segment is still in double-digits. So let’s take a look at where some of the leading suppliers of UV filters are now focusing their attention when it comes to innovation.
1. Making broad spectrum protection easy Even though many brands have long been engaged in broadening the spectrum of UV protection beyond UVB, the regulation in Europe and the recent move in the US have really set a new standard; proper sun protection should cover both UVB and UVA, which makes the formulation of products more delicate and complex. To offer broad spectrum protection while making the work of formulators easier, Croda launched the Solaveil SpeXtra™
3. Making more with less DSM has recently published studies showing how synergies between UV filters formulated in the right medium can maximise protection and skin feel at the same time – two formulation objectives that have often proven impossible to achieve. The optimisation of a UV filter system can be evaluated by relating the SPF to the concentration of UV filters in the formula. The lower the concentration of UV filters for a set SPF, the better. According to the studies, the average ratio in the market is around 1:3. However, high quality brands show ratios of up to 2:0. These ratios can be obtained using individual filters, however, combining certain filters generates genuine efficacy synergies. For example, combining Parsol® Parsol®
HS – a water-soluble UVB filter – with in 2010. Containing a novel titanium
dioxide, the Solaveil SpeXtra dispersions were specifically designed to deliver an optimal balance of UVA and UVB attenuation to meet the European UVA guidelines as a single active ingredient. This year at in-cosmetics, Croda will launch a simple solution for its customers in the US to meet the new FDA rules for broad spectrum claims.
2. Covering all the angles
Rather than developing new UV filters, laboratories are exploring better ways to use them and assess their performance. This is something DSM achieved when it first launched Parsol SLX. The product surprised many as it revealed a much better performance in vivo than in vitro, which could only be explained by a better distribution of the sunscreen on human skin. The surface of the skin is anything but even and smooth and depending on the formulation, the protective screen may leave minute spots uncovered, thus opening the door for UV rays to make their way into the skin. Hence there was a need to explore new synergies and formulation systems, which would provide homogeneous and reliable protection systems.
SLX, allowed DSM to reach a ratio of 2:7 with excellent skin feel, evaluated by an independent sensory expert panel on almost 20 skin feel criteria. Building on these principles, DSM has conducted a wider study on the optimal combination of sunscreens in adapted vehicles to obtain the highest SPF with the lowest concentration of UV filters, the best skin feel and good water resistance – research that can be shared with its customers.
4. The smaller, the better
Understanding how filters work and behave is still an open field in which BASF, for instance, has also done a lot of work. At the Sun Protection Conference in London last year, the company presented the results of its study into the influence of particles on the performance of sunscreens. It showed that both organic and inorganic particulate UV filters act mainly via absorption, with scattering and reflection being only minor effects in terms of protection. Moreover, the study showed that the efficiency of particulate UV-filters increases with smaller particle size.
Which brings us on to the nano issue. What most laboratories fear most, is the risk that scare- mongering spread by the media and social networks will kill genuine innovation potential. According to Ian Tooley, R&D Manager at Croda, “the lack of standardisation has certainly created a great deal of uncertainty within our industry.” However, Croda firmly believes in the value of ultra-fine inorganic sunscreens and that nanoparticle sunscreens are safe and effective. “We are focused
on supporting our customers during this time of uncertainty, providing them with the vital information they need about the properties of our products, whether that be the particle size, safety profiles or ingredients,” continued Tooley.
5. Looking beyond the protection Filters are the first line of defence in protecting the skin against the damages caused by UV rays - which explains the importance of ongoing research in this area. However, at some point, this first line of defence can be crossed. In order to provide a more complete protection against UV induced damages, it is essential to supplement sun care products with active ingredients, which are capable of assisting the skin’s defence system, and actually evaluate these actives in direct relation to UV exposure. The 2011 launch of SymHelios®
1031 by Symrise, was a
step in this direction. The active targets Aryl Hydrocarbon Receptor, a protein that binds with UV induced toxins and is thought to cause collagen and elastin destruction, oxidative stress and the activation of growth factors.
6. Think light and sensual However efficient a cream is, if its texture does not have a pleasant and light feel, people simply won’t use it. Or if they do, they may use it incorrectly thus exposing themselves to UV rays without even realising that there are ‘chinks in their armour’. With a global presence across all of the personal care segments, from actives to fragrance, and functional ingredients to UV protection systems, companies such as Symrise are capable of offering comprehensive insights into the design of solar beauty products. This means that they can not only assist their customers in the selection of the most appropriate UV filters, but they are also able to assist them in creating multi-sensory experiences which take into account the cultural dimensions of the markets as well as the positioning of their customers. The sensory parameter in UV protection is becoming critical to the point that medium to high UV protection is now being incorporated into products beyond the sun care industry. The fashion for all-inclusive products such as BB creams is one of a new generation of formulas, which provide the benefits of skin care, UV protection and make-up in a single application.
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