Restaurant
“YOU’VE GOT TO LOVE THE CONVIVIAL NATURE OF A GOOD CURRY HOUSE” pepper and tamarind. You could really taste the whole spices – curry leaves gave a wonderful aroma. The kacha murgh massala was a
hot and dry curry cooked with red peppers, green chillies (not green beans as I failed to realise until it was too late – picture steam blowing out of each ear) spring onions and mustard powder. It had a real kick but again the flavours of the individual spices shone through. It made your mouth tingle. The pathila (again adorned with a
warning of two chillies on the menu, to denote it’s hot) was given a warm welcome. Tender strips of chicken and bags of herbs including coriander and mint, were mixed with garlic and yoghurt in a rich and tangy sauce. For those that like lime pickle, you’ll love the sweet and sour notes in this flavoursome dish. The new Mrs Baker called it “warm but with cool lime undertones”. A token veggie dish came in the
form of village style begon. It was a clever dish of sliced okra cooked with ginger, garlic, spring onion, tomatoes, pepper and cashew nuts. It was very
mild but had just the right amount of delicate spicing and a real contrast in textures thanks to the whole nuts and a silky sauce thanks to the natural thickener, okra. A chicken passanda was sweet but not too mild, while the special murgh makhani (or butter chicken as most people will know it) was really rich and meaty in flavour. You could actually taste the chicken and the spice, rather than just butter and cream. The sizzling chicken nawabi came flaming, after being spiked with brandy at the table. It had quite the punch too, thanks to lots of fresh ginger. I also couldn’t resist my favourite
side dishes (and in my opinion, a proper test of any good Indian restaurant): tarka dall and saag ponir. The dahl had a great depth of flavour from the caramelised garlic and onions and was nicely creamy and so begged to be mopped up with our mountains of blistered, buttery naans and perfectly cooked rices. The paneer was delicious. Again it was fresh spinach bound in fresh cream with whole chunks of real, squeaky, moreish cheese. Try the sag dall too, as long as you like garlic. The difference with this Indian
restaurant compared with many that we have all tried, is that each dish tastes different. The chefs are cooking from scratch, using the best of British meat. There is no one base sauce that has a little bit added here and a little bit added there. It is all fresh. You can taste the spice, you can taste the herbs and the meat is juicy and flavoursome. The staff are wonderfully
friendly, too. And that’s all part of it, isn’t it? Eating out is about the experience, and you get it in ship loads at the Sultan. Why wait until Friday night? CL
Be sure to order a feast – you’ll want to try every dish on the menu
VISITING DETAILS
Opening hours: Sunday to Thursday noon-2pm, 5.30-11pm; Friday and Saturday noon-2pm, 5.30pm-midnight We visited: 7.30pm Saturday Prices: Starters start from as little as £2.95, mains £6.50 and sides 60p. Prices vary for takeaway and eating in. Family friendly: There are recommended dishes for children as well as “English” options such as fried chicken, omelettes, steak and chips Veggie friendly? Very – try them even if you aren’t one Disabled access: Limited, the restaurant is up on the first floor. Service: Very attentive, friendly and fast
Sultan 23 Dyer Street (first floor), Cirencester
www.sultancirencester.com
www.mediaclash.co.uk Cirencester Life 27
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