Burberry clad the first man to reach the South Pole in its waterproof gabardine, while Aquascutum dressed soldiers in the trenches. They returned in their trenchcoats and turned them fashion items
For shirts, high quality is in evidence at Hilditch & Key,
Emma Willis, Duchamp, Harvie & Hudson, TM Lewin, Thomas Pink and Turnbull & Asser. Accessorise with natty Albert Thurston braces and fine-knitted Corgi socks, or perhaps an umbrella from Swaine Adeney Brigg, also famous for creating Indiana Jones’s felt hat. “Britain has some phenomenal attributes that reflect our brands: politeness, respect for quality, integrity and correctness,” points out Mark Henderson, Deputy Chairman of Gieves & Hawkes (who have measured customers from Lord Nelson to David Beckham). “This is combined with the fact that London is the most diverse population of any city in the world, with a lot of different influences, talent and a constant influx of new ideas.” Leatherworking is another example of the craftsman’s
skill that is still relevant today, reaching its pinnacle in Northampton’s shoemaking trade, with knowledge passed from father to son since the 1200s. Some of the highest quality shoes in the world come from 200-year-old Trickers, who still make footwear by hand for the Prince of Wales. While Grenson, Crockett & Jones, Church’s, Loake, John Lobb, Edward Green, George Cleverley and Alfred Sargeant, while Oliver Sweeney, Mr Hare and Gaziano & Girling cater to the many well-heeled contemporary feet. British women have historically looked to Italy for designer footwear, but Jimmy Choo is a home-grown name that has established a high-profile footfall internationally. And while the 20th century saw leatherworking dwindle due to cheaper foreign products swamping the market,
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some old brands still survive: Dent’s has been producing butter-soft gloves since 1777, including those worn by The Queen at her coronation; her ancestor Queen Victoria scribbled her thoughts in a Smythson leather-bound manuscript; while Jackie Onassis commissioned Tanner Krolle, now specialists in sturdy luggage and handbags. Other great luggage makers were Alfred Dunhill, who moved from saddlery to the automobile industry, and Papworth, whose exquisite luggage recalls the great days of rail travel. For chic accessories, there are Ettinger’s sumptuous wallets and purses – with surprising flashes of colour inside – plus relative newcomers Cherchbi, Bill Amberg, Aspinal and Knomo, who blend a solid leatherworking expertise with contemporary designs. Family-run Mulberry is a true British success story, still operating out of Somerset but on an international scale. Also for handbags, the witty retro Lulu Guinness and chic Anya Hindmarch dominate, with recently established Safor offering a range of off-the-peg or bespoke handbags from ethically sourced materials. In the fine jewellery market, jewels arrived through Amsterdam or Rotterdam to be set by Asprey, Garrard, Mappin & Webb, Boodles and Backes & Strauss. Theo Fennell and Tateossian continue to raise the bar with modern designs. Many British brands are holding their
ground, even in fields that are dominated by foreign names. The French and Italians have
BRITAIN 21
Clockwise from top left: Vivienne Westwood fashion show; Mr Cleverley of Cleverley shoes; Jeweller and luxury goods house, Asprey; Sloane shoes by Loake
PHOTOS: COURTESY OF VIVIENNE WESTWOOD/CLEVERLEY/LOAKE/ASPREY
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