FOOD: RE VIEW CROWN HEIGHTS
DAVID HUDSON REVIEWS THE ANGEL AND CROWN 58 ST MARTIN’S LANE, WC2N 4EA 020 7748 5244.
WWW.THEANGELANDCROWN.COM
Since launching their first gastropub back in the mid- 00s, brothers Tom and Ed Martin have built themselves quite an empire. They now operate half a dozen of the capital’s finest gastropubs, including The Gun in Docklands and the Prince Arthur in London Fields. Having first set down roots in the East End, they have, more recently, added Kensington locations to their portfolio, with the Cadogan Arms in King’s Road and The Botanist in Sloane Square. However, if they’ve so far passed under your radar it may be because they’ve not – until now – ventured into the West End. That all changed just before Christmas, when they took over and relaunched the Angel and Crown on St Martin’s Lane. This historical
establishment has been in operation since 1727. Given its location, it has always proved to be a popular hostelry, although it has undoubtedly been overshadowed by the larger and more visually impressive The Salisbury, which stands directly opposite on the other side of St Martin’s Lane. Tom and Ed, and their ETM Group, have completely revamped the place, but have, thankfully, not set about trying to re-invent the wheel. Utilising the template successfully honed in their other venues, they’ve set out to reaffirm the Angel and Crown’s British credentials, playing up its historic pedigree. The small ground- floor bar offers wood panelling, silver tankards, brass foot-rails and red leather bar stools, with a range of real ales to complement the lagers and spirits, and an all-day bar menu that includes such dishes as pheasant sandwich with parsnip crisps and Clonakilty black pudding Scotch eggs. For the full dining
experience, reserve a table in
the first-floor dining-room. Again, the atmosphere is traditional without being too chintzy. There’s a real fireplace on one side of the room, a stuffed pheasant above the bar, wooden tables and chairs, and windows overlooking St Martin’s Lane. The menu is an
imaginative selection of British classics. We began our
(£8.50). The black pudding was delicious – perfectly complemented by the lightly poached egg in its own egg coddler (a small ramekin). The cod pie was also served in its own pie dish, topped by a puff pastry lid. Our waiter had warned me that it was a subtle dish, and “not as fishy as you might imagine”. He wasn’t wrong. Once I’d removed the
was perfectly cooked, being both moist, tender and packed with flavour – served with cabbage, peas and chunky lardons of streaky bacon and the faggot parcels of pork. The salmon was also top notch, drizzled with dill butter and scattered with small brown shrimps. We shared a side dish of chunky, hand-cut chips (£3.50), although you don’t really need a side dish, given the size of the portions. Finally, we forced
ourselves to check out the desserts (£5 each), and the portions were again generous. I opted for chocolate mousse, cornflakes and crème fraiche sorbet – the chocolate-covered cornflakes being served as a small cake for an instant hit of childhood nostalgia. More childhood memories were summoned up by the likes of Angel Delight butterscotch crème brûlée, or crown cobbler with apple, blackberry and Bird’s custard; but my companion – an Italian – went instead for Cashel Blue cheese with truffled honey and raisin toast – which offered a rich and luxurious end to his meal. We’re not sure why there
meal with a complimentary amuse bouche – small cups of white onion and Madeira sherry soup topped with a truffle froth and served with truffle croutons and a strip of streaky bacon. They looked like small cups of cappuccino and offered a salty and earthy combination of flavours. For starters, we opted for Black pudding, coddled egg and tarragon (£6.50) and the arresting-sounding cod cheek, cod tongue and fennel pie
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WWW.OUTMAG.CO.UK
pastry lid and allowed the scalding hot fish sauce to cool to an edible temperature, I found it strangely lacking in flavour. On the plus side, both portions were generous.
Our main courses were also plentiful: braised rabbit with grain mustard, faggots, bacon and peas (£14) and grilled salmon, brown shrimp, dill butter sauce and greens (£14.50). On this occasion, both hit the spot. The rabbit
were bread plates but no offer of bread (plates vanished when the starters were removed), but we’ll put that down to teething problems. Besides that, service was friendly and competent. Some may find the room a little cramped; others may enjoy the intimacy. Either way, the menu is well thought-out and good quality.
Custom was busy on the
evening of our visit, and the maitre d’ confirmed that business had been brisk since the launch, with both pre- and post-theatre menus (5-6.30pm and 10-11pm) ensuring a rapid turnover of seats. Given its location and the care with which the Martin brothers have tackled their first West End venue, it’s difficult to see how it could fail.
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