As with Bookbinder's though, time tolled its death knell and for the most part, the posi- tion went the way of that old seafood restau- rant: a fading memory.


"Like the stewardess is now a flight atten- dant,” explains Larry Bravman, "at most places the maitre d' is now called the man- ager.”


Since 1984 Bravman has been a maitre d' at the renowned Prime Rib restaurant in Washington, DC. It is a position that can be construed as powerful, just like the senators and members of congress he seats and serves each day. “The role is more than just taking reservations. It is making people happy, putting out fires, and working to see that the room runs properly. If there is a guest problem, it is only right for it to become my problem.”


Why has the maitre d' become so scarce, even in the most important city in the coun- try?


Bravman sums up the reason: "It is a differ- ent world. The art of service is different. People of the newer generation don't fully get it; they have to be trained in the art of service. We, those of us in our forties and fifties, were brought up with higher values. Because the core service beliefs are not as strong, corporate America has dictated that the position should be eliminated.”


"Why [bring on] a maitre d' when you can hire a manager to do a million other things?” he continued. "Unfortunately, the main thing that matters is the customer who gets the short end of this deal.”


Like the busboy, corporate American has integrated this position into others, gaining more bang-for-the-buck as it were. It is refreshing then, to talk with this veteran maitre d', someone who still proves that old school is alive and well at the Prime Rib.


GOING, GOING...


"When times are tough" explains Carrie Leishman, president and CEO of the Delaware Restaurant Association, "owners look at their bottom lines. Restaurants real- ly have had to do without additional staffs to try and improve their profit margin. Unfortunately, flat is the new up.”


Mid-Atlantic EVENTS Magazine 77


Leishman, who has been in her capacity for over a decade, sees a marked adaptability within the industry. "Owners are now their own maitre d's. Keeping skilled workers without having maitre d's and bus boys can improve the profit margin.”


The fact is, as an industry arbiter, she sees there are more trained and educated people in our industry who can multi-task in a vari- ety of positions, mainly because there are more people out of work.


"Frankly, I'm not sure if those jobs will ever come back. They're going away. But you can still have great service without a maitre d' and without a busboy.”


Meanwhile, back at the Kimberton Inn, my coffee is not getting cold and a refresh of warm sticky buns is being placed in front of me, thanks to the smiling young man in the neatly pressed tux shirt and black bow tie.


In this decade and in this industry, where customer service is more than a buzz phrase, it is nice to know there are still some places where extra efforts through special- ized positions still matter.


Ken Alan is the Vice President of Concierge Services for BPG Properties, Ltd. He is the founding member of the Philadelphia Concierge Association and a contributor to several regional publications. kalan@bpgltd.com


The Maitre d' was THE MAN - the best friend that any big shot or top gun wannabe could have on the inside at his favorite restaurant.


The Maitre d' always had "The juice,” pulling his best customers aside, veering them wide and past the long, expectant line at the host's stand, and gently guiding them to an A-table.


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