ment where every dollar counts" Haney explains, "headquarters might say it's cheap- er to do it this way by folding the busser position into the server's.”
Haney, though, understands the untold value in keeping a hospitality-oriented envi- ronment. "Why limit our servers to only attending to a smaller set of tables when we can maximize their efforts through the use of assistants? Team members such as Gus Kafetsis are proof that experience overrides short-term savings in the long run.”
Kimberton Inn owner Jeff Effgen couldn't agree more.
Since 1980, this savvy proprietor has utilized a skilled bussing staff - a youthful team which has helped the inn maintain its reputation as one of the region's top restaurants and wedding/private party desti- nations.
"The bus boy is a very intelligent way of allowing a skilled server to have more impact in a room.” Effgen explains of this concept: “I believe in the following: Have servers" working in a large, stimulating space while getting help from the bus staff. In the division of labor, if you are spreading a serv-
er's skills too far, you diminish them by having them clear their own tables.”
He also prescribes to the idea that customers of all ages are invigorated by youth. "Variety of age is really important. In a neighborhood, you don't just have old people. It is the same principle here.”
In a time when the perceived bottom line usually takes center stage, it is refreshing to know that the Jeff Effgens and Jim Haneys of this world understand the importance of stability and evolution.
The Miatre D’ - A Friend to Abe Fromans Everywhere
Remember "Ferris Bueller's Day Off" when Ferris, Cameron and Sloane try to get one over on the "snitty, snotty" maitre d'? (In order to gain a table, our hero claimed to be "Abe Froman, the Sausage King of Chicago.”) Well, it is kind of how Hollywood has always painted that position - a sniveling, snoot.
In actuality, the Maitre d' was THE MAN - the best friend that any big shot or top gun wannabe could have on the inside at his favorite restaurant. The Maitre d' always had "The juice,” pulling his best customers aside, veering them wide and past the long, expectant line at the host's stand, and gently guiding them to an A-table.
Back when I first started making dining reservations, I was fortunate to know Anthony at famed Bookbinder's, and also, Michael, who graced the front foyer at that bastion of French gastronomy, Le Bec-Fin.
There were others, of course: men who were the top gatekeepers; men who could make their guests feel like kings and queens; men who typified that suave, smooth persona like nobody else did in the restaurant business.
76 January February 2012
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