JAPAN IN SEVEN POTATOES - BISTRO TAIYO IN NANAIMO By Chris Robinson


Restaurant REVIEW C


anada’s cultural mosaic, and the diversity that accompanies it, broadened my tastebuds this month. I experienced an


authentic Japanese meal in the Island’s own “Seven Potatoes.” It turns out that Nanaimo translates to just that: “seven” (nana) “potato” (imo) in Japanese. Ken Seki, the owner and proprietor of Bisto Taiyo, entertained me with this and a great deal more. Bistro Taiyo is not only an encounter with Japanese


cuisine; it is an encounter with Japanese culture. In Japan, Seki’s establishment would be an izakaya which operates as a combination of restaurant, bar and place to socialize. The mentality in Japan being that since living spaces often resemble diminutive shoe-boxes, one would socialize at an izakaya rather than entertain guests within his or her aforementioned shoebox. And Seki runs his izakaya with a corresponding friendliness; when the staff break, they sit and eat together. One of his regular visitors, one who has spent enough time in Japan to learn the language (and was kind enough to interpret for us at times), describes Bistro Taiyo as “going back home to Japan.” And this is not said lightly. Bistro Taiyo’s food is about as


Japanese as it gets, short of hopping a plane and heading across the ocean. His menu features familiar teriyaki flavours, which most Canadians have encountered at least in passing, as well as dishes I have significant trouble pronouncing, let


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alone spelling. Luckily, the menus feature full colour pictures of each of his dishes. Now, I’ve tried sushi and other Japanese cuisine in the past, but all of the dishes I’ve enjoyed previously were prepared to be different, yet still familiar. This isn’t Sekis style. The sushi rice was prepared traditionally, with hand- fanning, wooden bowls, and the proper seasonings. The tea was unlike any other tea I’ve had at a Japanese restaurant. And I find myself at a loss for words to liken Seki’s dishes to anything North American. My personal favourite during my sampling evening was gomae (pronounced “go,” as in “go to Japan” and “my,” as in “this is my sushi”). If you pronounced that quietly to yourself just now, good for you! Now that you’ve wrapped your mouth around the word, go experience its smoky flavour. In a phrase, Bistro Taiyo gave me exactly what I was


expecting: Japan, in Nanaimo. But to fully experience what Bistro Taiyo and Seki have to offer, go with friends. Eat, and drink, and talk about the food you’re eating, as you would at a restaurant. Enjoy the novel flavours and enjoy your company, as you would at a bar. And relax, as you would at home. This is the izakaya experience, and this is why anyone visiting Seven Potatoes should not miss Bistro Taiyo.


Bistro Taiyo is located in the Old Ciy Quarter in Nanaimo at 2-321 Wesley Street. Call (250) 716-8861 for more information.


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