This page contains a Flash digital edition of a book.
BARBICAN LIFE


small plates among these, while the mains too offer a very varied selection. The only slight criticism on the meal we had was that perhaps the veal chop was a bit tougher than one might have expected, but extremely tasty nonetheless. The Dessert menu is definitely tempting for those with a sweet tooth with offerings at £7.50 or £8.00 – while cheese sets you back £9.00. An laternative is one of the special dessert cocktails at £9.00.


All in all Bread Street Kitchen looks to be a great venue to go to with a group of friends for a lively evening with access to plenty of cocktails and some good food to go with them – but perhaps not really the place for an intimate, and quiet, dinner a deux. Address: One New Change and 10 Bread Street, London EC4M 9AJ. Telephone: 020 3030 4050. North Road restaurant's Danish Chef Christoffer Hruskova has just earned a well- deserved Michelin star for the "spectrum of flavour and texture" of his Nordic cuisine. Indeed our visit to the restaurant for lunch happened to coincide with the day he was informed of the award and the staff were, naturally, overjoyed.


The restaurant is at


69-73 St John Street – on the left hand side heading north – where the old Clerkenwell Dining Rooms used to be. It’s cooking is best described as modern European with a Scandinavian touch by virtue of its chef, and the menu changes with seasonal availability of ingredients.


The wild rabbit starter is so soft and tender that it almost shreds and is topped with a wafer thin transparent layer of jellied pear aquavit. Scallop-shaped pieces of sweet pear and slices of sausage accompany the dish. The other starter we try is baby leeks with Dorset mussels, sitting on a sheen of lovage puree. The food is beautifully presented and quite simply delicious. We have already enjoyed the fresh-baked warm rolls – one dark malt – one light spelt, before our starters arrived.


Galloway beef fore rib topped with smoked bone marrow, decorated with sorrel leaves makes a substantial main course. Dorset grey mullet with courgette ribbons is a lighter choice. An Australian Sauvignon Blanc partners the food well.


A ball of blackberry and beetroot sorbet is a wonderful smooth just-sweet-enough dessert, adorned with super-thin slices of beetroot and juicy blackberries. We also tried fresh apple sorbet with cobnuts and meringue.


Our waiter was lovely and very helpful with questions about the dishes. The restaurant interior is tasteful - light and airy, white and shades of dark brown contrast pleasingly. Clean, straight lines complement the bar area’s rounded corners of triangular-backed dark chocolate bar chairs and mushroom-shaped lamps. Tablecloths and napkin are crisp white and the tables are well spaced. Working closely with British suppliers is a key part of the restaurant’s ethos, as is putting a large variety of fresh, local ingredients like lovage, elderberries, sorrel and garlic mustard leaf back on the menu. Fish is line caught from Dorset, meat comes from Cumbria and Devon.


Christoffer also likes to use many traditional methods of food preparation. Smoky flavours of varying notes are created in different traditional ways. The rabbit starter has a hint of smokiness from being rolled in burnt hay. Bone marrow is smoked and so has a stronger taste. When it’s served on top of the beef rib it infuses the meat with the flavour. Homemade vinegars are used for the pickled items on the menu such as pickled and raw vegetable salad. Meat is cooked sous-vide - vacuum sealed in a bag and then cooked longer for lower temperatures in hot water basins, which results in meat being more evenly cooked, tender, light and juicy. Sous-vide cookery was actually first discovered in 1799 and then rediscovered in the 1960’s before being adopted by top French chefs in the 70’s. Now an increasing number of high end restaurants and celebrity chefs are cooking in this way.


The menu changes regularly according to seasonal availability. The food is simple, healthy, tasty and fresh. Veggies are lightly cooked and refreshingly crisp. Savoury dishes are accompanied by vegetable purees instead of cream or butter based sauces. Rapeseed oil is used instead of heavier olive oil.


For the vegetarians among us simply call the restaurant before you go and discuss your dietary requirements and tastes and they will make you something delicious. Prices are very reasonable for a high-end eatery so close to the Barbican. The set lunch menu at £20 and pre-theatre menu at £22 are both remarkably good value and wines start from £16.50. The a la carte menu starters are around £8.50 with mains between £17-23.50 and desserts priced at £7.


North Road Restaurant, 69-73 St John Street, EC1M 4AY. Telephone 0203 217 0033. Website www.northroadrestaurant.co.uk. Opening times: Mon-Thurs 12-2.30pm & 6-10.30pm; Fri 12-2.30pm & 6-11pm, Sat 6-11pm; Sun closed.


North Road


North Road frontage


The Zetter Townhouse is the sister (or, as the establishment’s website refers to it, perhaps more like the eccentric Aunt) of the The Zetter Hotel which opened in in St John’s Square on the site of the old Zetter’s football pools offices in 2004. The Zetter Hotel and Townhouse is independently owned by Mark Sainsbury and Michael Benyan who first joined forces to open Moro restaurant in Exmouth Market. The Zetter Group has now opened The


Zetter Townhouse (located just across the cobbles of St John’s Square from the original Zetter Hotel). It occupies two Georgian town houses. It is a boutique hotel and cocktail lounge that serves tea, coffee, brunch and lighter meals. Menus are created by Executive Chef Bruno Loubet, from the bistrot that bears his name just opposite. He has created a menu that compliments the cocktails and demonstrates how bar food can be a reason


21


Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  |  Page 5  |  Page 6  |  Page 7  |  Page 8  |  Page 9  |  Page 10  |  Page 11  |  Page 12  |  Page 13  |  Page 14  |  Page 15  |  Page 16  |  Page 17  |  Page 18  |  Page 19  |  Page 20  |  Page 21  |  Page 22  |  Page 23  |  Page 24  |  Page 25  |  Page 26  |  Page 27  |  Page 28  |  Page 29  |  Page 30  |  Page 31  |  Page 32  |  Page 33  |  Page 34  |  Page 35  |  Page 36  |  Page 37  |  Page 38  |  Page 39  |  Page 40  |  Page 41  |  Page 42  |  Page 43  |  Page 44  |  Page 45  |  Page 46  |  Page 47  |  Page 48  |  Page 49  |  Page 50  |  Page 51  |  Page 52  |  Page 53  |  Page 54  |  Page 55  |  Page 56  |  Page 57  |  Page 58  |  Page 59  |  Page 60