FOOD • WINE • DINE


By Ron Skaar CLOVERDALE,


Life CA ~


Europe was just awakening from its Medieval stupor, towards the end of the 15th century.


for the peasants was very harsh. Grain was their stable food. At harvest time, the produce had to be divided between storage to last the long winter, and seed for the next crop. During the summer, cattle and oxen pro- vided labor plus dairy products.


These animals could not be kept alive on the scant supply of hay that remained thru win- ter and without room to keep them sheltered. So, most were slaughtered in the autumn.


a time of feasting and merry- making before nature confined the peasants to their cramped, shuttered dwellings where they weaved cloth, made and mended tools and clothing.


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The salted and smoked meat was rationed throughout the winter.


The autumn slaughter was


November 11th was the day of St. Martin, the patron of drinking and merriment. His day was one for celebration; similar to a thousand other festivals during primi- tive times marking the passing


of


autumn into winter.


The American


tradition of Thanksgiving is


one


Pilgrims were such merry- makers. Their thanksgiving


was gratitude for the har- vest and other blessings of the year. The day was first observed by the Pilgrims in the fall of 1626. They were an aus- tere, frugal and


sober group. (Not to sober, for the Mayflower had appar- ently docked early due to the beer


supply running low.)


The early New Englanders were astounded by the culi-


of


these festi- vals. I’m not so sure the


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TM With Executive Chef Ron Skaar ~This Month: Brussels Sprouts


nary treasures they had stum- bled across. The


turnips,


parsnips and carrots were bigger and sweeter


than


those grown in England. They had never seen pumpkins or cucumbers, and “here are likewise an abundance of turkey, exceed- ingly fat, sweet and fleshy”. This first Thanksgiving was an even more elaborate affaire. The menu included roast duck, geese, lobster, eel pie, and of


provided


by friendly Indians.


Tables


today include succulent roast turkey with stuffing, accompanied by Brussels


sprouts, corn, creamed onions, cranberry


sauce, sweet and


mashed potatoes; then fin- ished off with the ubiquitous pumpkin pie. I love Brussels sprouts. This


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cabbage vari- etal develops small, numer- ous heads along an elon- gated central stock,


similar


to its distant botanical rela- tives, capers and papaya. The Brussels sprout was probably developed


during the 15th Century although evi- dence for it’s


mounds venison


enjoyment only dates to the 18th Century. The centers of the sprouts contain high levels of glucosinolates, which cre- ate the bitter taste in certain palates. Cutting them in half will allow more of this con- centrate to be released dur- ing cooking. The recipe for Brussels sprouts I am includ- ing goes even further. You will enjoy them like never before. This French technique is a bit more work -family fun- but these sprouts will melt delightfully in your mouth. I promise.


November Recipe


16 Brussels Sprouts ½ pint cream 1/8th teaspoon ground nutmeg (fresh is best) Dash white pepper


Rinse sprouts, cut off stem and damaged outer leafs. Peal the leafs, cutting back the stem as you go, until you reach the “heart”. (very light colored about the size of a nickel.) Cut the hearts in half. Put the cream into a sauté pan and heat. When starting to bubble, add the leafs and hearts. Cook on med. heat uncovered. Turn sprouts gently. Don’t let the cream burn! After


5-7


tender and bright green. Add pepper and nutmeg. Serve immediately. Serves 4.


Pg 4


min they should be


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