FALL 2011
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BEHIND THE VINE
Behind The Vine with Viticulturist Sukhy Sran After several years marked by drought and warm weather, we have enjoyed our second cooler-than-normal summer in the wake of another rainy winter. By any standards, the 2011 growing season has been a bit quirky. We were on high alert when a late frost arrived in the second week of April. Later, cool spring temperatures caused “shatter” in our Cabernet Sauvignon blocks at Huerhuero Vineyard.
Evidence of shatter on Cabernet Sauvignon.
Shatter occurs when cool or inclement weather disrupts the flowering—or pollinating—stage of grape cluster development. The result is less grapes per cluster and even the reduction of total clusters. Consequently, our Cabernet Sauvignon yields are down by about 30 percent in 2011. A heat wave in June momentarily kicked everything into high gear. But while we also experienced several hot days in July and August, the summer weather has been unusually mild as we head into harvest.
As I write, there is still plenty of time, and I wouldn’t be surprised if we experienced
hotter spells in the weeks ahead. That said, we are in no rush. The cooler weather lengthens the growing season for steady, balanced ripening. This, in turn, yields balanced fruit, with the sugar, acid and tannin all developing in harmony. Such “physiological ripeness” produces wines with both deep flavors and excellent structure. Additionally, yields are fairly low this year, with the vines producing small clusters and berries. This enhances the skin-to-juice ratio, ultimately fostering added flavor intensity. Nevertheless, we have been taking proactive measures in our estate vineyards to maximize quality and ensure full ripeness should the weather remain cool through fall. Two such measures are leaf pulling and cluster thinning. By strategically removing leaves from the vines, we heighten sun exposure to the grapes, ensuring that the fruit will attain sufficient color and flavor. Meanwhile, we also remove clusters that look particularly immature, which further aids balanced ripening and produces a more uniformly developed crop. The bottom line is that we always need to be on our toes in the vineyard. We can’t predict the weather, and we can’t assume anything. But right now, from what I am seeing, I would bet that the 2011 vintage is going to produce some magnificent wines.
RECIPE
About The Chef – Andrew Sherrill Andrew Sherrill first began cooking in his mother’s kitchen at the age of 10. His passion for the culinary arts grew under the influence of both his gourmand grandfather and best friend’s Filipino mother. In 2004, after attending the Pennsylvania Culinary Institute, he was recruited by the Broadmoor Resort in Colorado Springs, where he worked at the Penrose Room restaurant under the tutelage of Chef Paul Anders. When the restaurant closed for renovations, he was lured to The Blue Star restaurant, also in Colorado Springs. As The Blue Star’s chef de cuisine, Andrew oversees a menu emphasizing “tasty food that soothes the soul.” Andrew kindly shares his Lamb Souvlaki recipe as a flavorful match for our 2007 Signature red blend.
Chef Andrew Sherrill’s Lamb Souvlaki with Grape Relish Enjoy with Vina Robles 2007 Signature
Souvlaki Ingredients (Serves 4 to 6) For 2 lbs of lamb loin: ½ cup - 50/50
4 tbsp. - lemon juice
2 tbsp. - fresh Mint, chopped 1 tbsp. - salt
½ cup - white wine
2 tbsp. - fresh oregano, chopped 16 cloves - garlic, minced
½ tbsp. - ground black pepper
Method Trim and cut lamb into 1” cubes. In a bowl, toss together all ingredients. Cover with plastic and marinate overnight. Skewer lamb onto wooden skewers with whatever fresh vegetable you have at hand (note: soak skewers in water to prevent burning). Grill all four sides over medium-high heat until medium rare (or when desired doneness is achieved), about 4 to 6 minutes. Place in warm spot and cover with aluminum foil to rest for 5 minutes.
Serve with Polenta
Grape Relish Ingredients 1 qt - red grapes, washed and halved 2 oz - sherry vinegar
1 tbsp. - fresh basil, minced Method Mix and season with salt and pepper to personal taste 2 ea - shallot, diced
1 tbsp. - fresh parsley, minced Salt and pepper as needed
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