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Sound Touch Taste


Smell Sight


5 Forms of Grace in Southern India


ORIGIN COLUMNIST Susanna Harwood Rubin


Chennai Street SOUND


merging into a symphonic roar that filtered up from the distant street through the still- dark windows and their drab curtains. In my time-zone-traversing state of delirium, fuelled by anticipation and the memory of the watery espresso consumed half a day ago in the Brussels airport, I created some operatic association. Chennai was far from the Met and a performance I had seen just a week ago, but there it was – an equally complex soundscape, carefully constructed of pieces and parts, sections and moments. Small metallic percussive construction sounds and persistent growls of machinery were


T ornamented by dogs barking and


people’s voices calling to each other through the streets. There was an all-ness and an every-ness to it - a pulse back and forth between one great sound and a multiplicity of smaller ones.


As a visual artist, writer, and Certified Anusara® Yoga teacher, Susanna infuses her classes with creativity, interweaving myth, poetry and philosophy to offer students an experience of intensity and grace. She has spent a decade studying with John Friend and Douglas Brooks.


Susanna has exhibited internationally, and spent years lecturing and writing for MoMA, including co-authoring Looking at Matisse and Picasso. She now takes delight in distilling complex yogic concepts into clear and vivid language so that her students can readily access their inner beauty. She is based at NYC’s Virayoga.


www.susannaharwoodrubin.com 34 OriginMagazine.com September/October 2011


In the next two weeks, I would find that the morning temple music and bells began punctually at 4:15am in every Tamil town, and that, anticipating it, I would consistently wake up a few minutes earlier, grabbing the pillow over my head, simultaneously grateful to be there and resentful about my absurd ongoing state of sleep-deprivation. Town after town, the external and the internal merged, broke apart, and swapped places. Sometimes you chant the mantra and sometimes it chants you.


he early morning sounds began one at a time, layering upon each other like an orchestra tuning up, finally


Chidambaram Temple Courtyard TOUCH S


treams of milk and flowers poured off of Nataraja, washing over my feet in the moonlight. The flowers stuck to my ankles and clung to the spaces between my toes. I hiked my sari up a polite inch, peering down at the swirling pool of milk in which I found myself standing. It soothed the blisters on the soles of my feet, scorched from the daytime heat of the temple stones.


It was strangely energizing. Just a moment ago I had felt utterly exhausted in a way that somehow didn’t seem quite normal – like an exhaustion that defined the word. Something about the chanting and the music and the hours spent sitting and standing on the stones of the temple. At this moment, a small group of us were closely gathered just to the side of Nataraja and his beloved, Shivakama Sundari, on a platform in Chidambaram Temple, overlooking a sea of thousands of faces. This was the Maha Abhisheka, the blessing of the deities in the form of poured offerings. It had started at 1:30 in the morning and would continue until dawn. Sandalwood paste, coconut water, ash, mango, flowers, honey, milk…


As the milk washed over the platform, it drained off the edge of the stones, where people below pressed up against the walls to catch it in empty water bottles. I bent down and dipped in my finger to taste its cool sweetness. We were being bathed in grace. We were ankle-deep in grace.


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