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BELLA VISTA W


hen Bella Vista underwent a major revamp a couple of years ago the menu had evolved from an Anglicised Italian job to a


much more subtle creation encompassing many traditional regional dishes courtesy of Piero Marenghi of London’s multi award- winning restaurant L’Anima. Bella Vista, now under its dedicated and enthusiastic head chef Alex Tyndall, has built on this groundwork and fine-tuned its food to appeal to diners who love the bold flavours and textures that predominate in Italian cooking. Tyndall, who is not Italian but has always had a great passion for Italian is cooking up an Italian storm in this Blackheath eatery and his culinary pedigree shines through, no doubt due to the six years he spent at Michelin starred Chapter One. This attractive eatery in Montpelier


Vale, regularly attracts knowledgeable local foodies as well as culinary migrants from a


Bella Vista offers rustic Italian cooking at its best says food and restaurant critic Peter Brewer


the rice and the grains should still separate. This risotto was spot on in every way. My chargrilled swordfish with


anchovy and capers was cooked to perfection. I love the flavour and the appearance of swordfish because it


wide area who are happy to brave the bizarre machinations of south London’s road planners and ‘traffic engineers’ to pay homage to Tyndall’s authentic cuisine. Tyndall never fails to deliver. He may not be Italian but he certainly cooks like one. Lured by Bella Vista’s growing reputation J and I head for Blackheath at lunchtime to suss out Alex Tyndall’s take on regional Italian cooking and boy, were we pleased we did. Not a pizza in sight. Don’t get me wrong, I like pizza’s, well proper ones, not the Americanised, bastardised things that appear in so many fast food chains. Give me a proper Neapolitan thin pizza and I’m a happy


conliglio – or bunny to you. Anyway, Bella Vista doesn’t do them, just real, tasty, yummy, full-on flavour, and authentic Italian nosh of the highest order. The interior is also easy on the eye. The words authentic and


welcoming come easily to mind and the soft colours help set the tone nicely – this place is certainly an improvement on the old-style Italian eatery where wax-encrusted empties on each table were regarded as the height of sophistication. For starters I had the classic Spaghetti Carbonara, which was absolutely delicious, with crispy pancetta and pecorino cheese. J opted for grilled Sardines, pickled vegetables & rocket – simply presented and beautifully fresh. J reckons you can always judge an Italian restaurant by the way it does risotto. I have lost count of the number of times she has been disappointed. The dish is often served too dry, too moist or just completely tasteless. Not this time! Traditionally risotto should be smooth and just slightly oozy with just the right amount of bite to


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holds its shape really well after cooking. The texture of the meat should be slightly chewy and not fall apart as soon as you cut into it. When it came to ordering desserts, J decided she had to have her favourite - tiramisu. Now while you would think this isn’t really the most difficult dish to get right it can vary so much from one restaurant to another. J declared that this one was top of her list.


I had an almond tart with cherries and it was magnificent – quite outstanding and served with the most amazing cherry ice cream. Alex Tyndall has created something of a


culinary gem in Blackheath, the restaurant was very busy on our visit. It has also made its mark as the areas favoured private dining venue with its elegant first floor room much favoured by those who enjoy a little bit of exclusivity when they have that special group gathering – now I know why J keeps on dropping hints about our forthcoming silver wedding anniversary…… 3-5 Montpelier Vale, London SE3 0TA www.bellavistarestaurant.co.uk 020 8318 1143. Price for two £47.90 (excluding wine


& service)


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