quickly became known, for obvious reasons, as the Camino Ingles. Many other paths soon followed, including treks through Portugal and V’ezelay in France. Probably the most iconic and well known, the Camino Francés, runs from St Jean-Pied-de-Port, over the Pyrenees, and 500 miles westwards to the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. In 1987 it was awarded the accolade of first European Cultural Route by the Council of Europe. This is the trek that I will be undertaking in September, and I will be following in the footsteps of some notable luminaries, such as Geoffrey Chaucer. After being captured during the early stages of the Hundred Year’s War in 1360 he was released when a ransom was paid. He must have been fairly well thought of even then for the King, Edward III, contributed £16 towards the cost of setting him free. Rumour has it that Chaucer then walked to Santiago de Compostela. Twenty years later Chaucer commenced writing his satirical story of everyday pilgrims, otherwise known as the Canterbury Tales. We will probably never know if he drew some inspiration from his earlier adventure, but the romantic in me likes to think so. On previous forays through Spain I have come across people with many of the characteristics worn by those he mentions in his book. Never let it be said that there is not a thread that joins all humans.
Pilgrimages to Santiago de
Compostela reached their zenith in the 12th century and then dropped away. By this time the Renaissance was in its embryonic stage reaching its zenith in the 15th and 16th centuries. As the population grew towns were expanding and there was more reason to stay home. For pilgrims seeking a plenary indulgence there was no need to walk hundreds of miles on dusty roads in penury while fighting off bandits to seek the remission of their sins, instead they could join the relative security of a Crusade and go off on another attempt at recapturing Jerusalem. Yet, although the numbers along the trails diminished, there was always a gentle flow of those willing to undertake the journey, ensuring the routes, and the supporting infrastructure, remained in place. The reward for walking the route in modern times is the award of a certificate, or Compostela by the cathedral authorities. But you can’t simply turn up and ask for one, you have to prove you have walked at least the minimum distance. To do this you need to present for examination your Credential del Peregrino, or pilgrim’s passport, which will have been stamped at various locations stayed in en route. Even that will not guarantee your efforts will be rewarded.
The route is well marked and paths have been upgraded over the years
Before the certificate is finally given you are interviewed and your reasons for undertaking the pilgrimage closely examined. If you are unable to show that there was spiritual or religious significance to your wanderings then your hard slog will have been in vain. If I get over those hurdles then I will certainly attend the midday pilgrim’s mass when the names of those who were awarded their Compostela the previous day are read out. Occasionally at these services the huge Botafumeiro or censer is swung. One of the largest in the world it requires several men to control it.
In recent years interest in the pilgrimage has revived. In September 2004 the number of pilgrims registering at the Pilgrim’s office in Santiago was 22,753. In September 2010 that number had risen to 36, 870 of whom 16,000 were women, 5000 arrived by bike, 133 on horseback, and 8 in wheelchairs. And of that grand total 5000 were aged above 60 years of age, which is the category that I will fall into should I succeed. It is one statistic I won’t mind becoming. Now, this may seem a large number
to be walking a relatively, narrow path but the reality is the majority have only walked the last 60 miles of the route, which is the minimum required to obtain the coveted Compostela. So, do I know what I’m letting myself in for? To some extent yes. Two years ago, while researching articles for a magazine, I drove the route in the reverse direction and know the hard bits, the boring bits and that I will have to walk through torrential rain if I am to arrive in time to catch the ferry back to Plymouth. Will I be daunted as I stand looking up from the foothills of the Pyrenees, knowing I have another 500 miles to go? Without doubt. Will I get tired and wish I’d never started? Probably. Will
The Cathedral at Santiago de Compostela
I miss my family? Most Certainly. Will I be lonely? Absolutely not, for even though I will be alone, I like to think I will be accompanied by those in whose memory I walk. If you wish to make a donation to
this walk for Help for Heroes then you can do so on line at
www.justgiving.com/thepilgrim or by cheque made out to Mr D Read and sent to: Mr Don Read, Help for Heroes, Yelverton Golf Club, Golf Links Road, Yelverton PL20 6BN
The high altar in the cathedral at Santiago de Compostela
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