Durham Delve deeper into Durham
At Bowes Museum you’ll find altars, brooches, coins, keys and seal boxes on display, excavated from Binchester and from the nearby Piercebridge Roman Fort
Durham’s Market Place boasts a heady combination of
inspirational buildings, imposing statues and an indoor Victorian Market dating back to 1851. The 19th-century Town Hall and 17th-century Guildhall are just two shining examples of Durham’s listed buildings – the historic core boasts more than 500. St Nicholas Church has been welcoming congregations and visitors alike since 1858; it is a particularly impressive place to visit when one of the Sunday services is in full flow. While Durham itself abounds in tales of noble monks,
venerable saints and sumptuous Victorian architecture, layers and layers of an even older history await discovery on the city’s outskirts. The partially excavated remains of Binchester Roman Fort, dating from around AD80, and once the largest fort in the county, are a good introduction to the region’s rich Roman heritage. The ancient bathhouse that has also been unearthed, with its sophisticated under-floor heating system, is equally fascinating. A short drive from Durham, at The Bowes Museum you’ll
find altars, brooches, coins and seal boxes on display, excavated from Binchester and nearby Piercebridge Roman Fort, dating from AD270. A visit to Bowes, though, isn’t all about Roman heritage. The grand 19th-century mansion, modelled on a French chateau, is worth visiting in its own right for its world-renowned collection of European art. One of the oldest paintings in the collection, A Miracle of the Holy Sacrament by Sassetta, is truly beguiling. The
• Beamish Museum: An award-winning, replica 1900s northern English town. Enjoy the fairground, traditional sweets, the mine and local pub. Tel: (0191) 3704000;
www.beamish.org.uk • Durham Castle: During university holidays you can stay in basic student accommodation in the castle. Accommodation is also available in the luxurious state rooms year round. Tel: (0191) 3344106;
www.dur.ac.uk/university. college/conferences/bandb • Fallen Angel: This hotel offers sumptuous guestrooms in its Grade II listed Georgian Town House in the city centre. Tel: (0191) 3841037;
www.fallenangelhotel.com • Finbarr’s: A restaurant with a pleasant ambience and great British food. Try haggis, Scotch eggs and braised venison.
Tel: (0191) 3709999;
www.finbarrsrestaurant.co.uk • Fowlers Yard: This is the place to watch artists making jewellery and textiles, and admire contemporary paintings and photographs.
www.fowlersyarddurham.co.uk • Lumiere: This four-day winter festival transforms Durham into a winter wonderland with contemporary art installations and illuminations lighting up the historic monuments. 17-20 November.
www.lumieredurham.com • Tanfield Railway: Take a ride on a steam train on the Tanfield Railway, operating since 1725. Departures are limited so check in advance. Tel: 0845 4634938;
www.tanfieldrailway.co.uk
• If calling from overseas, dial your international code, then 44, and then omit the first zero.
Above: The French chateau-style building of The Bowes Museum. Below: Sassetta's A Miracle of the Holy Sacrament – a highlight of the Bowes collection. Above right: Durham castle, today part of the university
black and white clothes of the clerics stand in stark contrast to the colourful fabrics worn by the congregation, and the holy man depicted as being struck dead while taking communion is shocking and intriguing. Other highlights in this rich collection include Canaletto’s The Regatta on the Grand Canal, The Tears of St Peter by El Greco, and Goya’s famous portrait Juan Antonio Meléndez Valdés. Another of County Durham’s most prized museum
collections is back in the city, in the magnificent cathedral itself. The Treasures of St Cuthbert includes some remarkable anglo-saxon and medieval relics. The original bronze sanctuary knocker from the north door and St Cuthbert’s pectoral cross are among the stars of a collection that aptly reflects the myriad layers of history that are at the heart of Durham’s charm. A return visit to what Bill Bryson proclaimed the “best cathedral on planet earth” seems a fitting way to end any adventure through Durham.
For our full report, go to
www.britain-magazine.com. For details of what to see and where to stay in Durham visit
www.thisisdurham.com. Tourist Information Centre: 2 Millennium Place, Durham DH1 1WA, tel: (0191) 38437204.
86 BRITAIN
www.britain-magazine.com
PHOTOS: THE BOWES MUSEUM
PHOTO: DURHAM UNIVERSITY
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