Durham
One of Durham’s charms is that its old core has changed so little over the centuries. At its heart you’ll find an enchanting maze of cobbles and hilly winding streets
pointed arches (some of the earliest known examples in the world) and intricate 17th-century wooden carvings – is as glorious as its exterior. On sunny days light floods through the rose window, which features some of Durham’s most important bishops, and illuminates the beautiful stained- glass windows in the Chapel of the Nine Altars. While the magnificence of the cathedral is undeniable,
Durham owes its secular importance to William the Conqueror. Fresh from victory at the Battle of Hastings, and seeking a stronghold in the northeast, William decided that the River Wear would be a good buffer against the unruly Scots. He commissioned the construction of Durham Castle in 1072, and it is an outstanding Norman motte-and-bailey castle, keeping an ever-watchful eye over the town. This majestic fortification has been wholly occupied by
University College, Durham, since 1840. Durham is England’s third-oldest university, and a tour with one of the postgraduate guides will give you a glimpse into the tradition-structured world of Durham’s students, along with tall tales of antics past and present. It will also let you delve back through Durham’s rich web of history to the fascinating period of 800 or so years when the semiautonomous Prince Bishops, kings in all but name, presided over the Palatinate of Durham. From the castle you can wend your way down to
Framwellgate Bridge, one of the oldest on the Wear, and the perfect place to begin a riverside walk. Ambling along the banks you’ll find a tranquillity that’s absent from most
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urban centres, and be rewarded by an ever-changing perspective of the cathedral and castle looming above. The stone-arched bridges are striking in themselves, as you follow the river on its lazy journey around the peninsula past Prebends Bridge and on to Elvet Bridge. Although it’s a thoroughly modern city complete with
big-name high-street shops, one of Durham’s charms is that its old core has changed so little over the centuries. At its heart, Market Place, Silver Street, Saddler Street and Claypath offer an enchanting maze of cobbles and hilly winding streets. Admiring the centuries-old buildings steeped in character and the pretty old-town shopfronts is a rewarding experience. And you can easily while away the hours in boutiques like Chapman Jewellery on the Market Place, which sells exquisite hand-crafted pieces, or The Mugwump on Saddler Street, a treasure trove of beautiful and unusual gifts, knickknacks and clothes.
Clockwise from centre: Durham cathedral; The Sanctuary knocker; Detail of a crest on the choir stalls; A boat on the river Wear; Steps in the town centre; The marketplace; Prebends Bridge; An aerial view of Durham; Interior of the cathedral
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