labour conditions, quality and training of apprentices”.
Today, the terminology is slightly different. Livery companies in embryo are called guilds. The word livery, meaning uniform, indicates the liveryman’s entitlement to wear the distinguishing dress of his company. The role played by the liveries has shifted slightly also, over the years.
Prior to the Reformation the livery companies were closely affi liated with the Church; later they became more specifi cally trade associations; and today their biggest importance is as social and charitable organizations, within their particular sector.
The livery companies fall into an all-important Order of
Precedence, based on wealth and political infl uence, and settled (after much jostling) in 1515. The Mercers, or general merchants, lead; followed by the Grocers; the Drapers; the Fishmongers, and the Goldsmiths. The Tailors and Skinners alternate yearly at sixth and seventh place to keep the peace between them, which is probably where the expression ‘at sixes and sevens’ began. The Fishmongers are unusual, these days, in still having
a very grand hall in which to meet. But as Cooper explains, having fewer halls has made them more fl exible: “Companies occasionally borrow each others’ [halls], and we can all convene at our City’s magnifi cent Guildhall or Mansion House for business meetings and functions”. While much has changed, many of the street names in
the City of London still give a nod to their livery company’s time-honoured activity – Bread Street,
Ironmonger Lane, Cloth Fair. Inevitably, some trades, like the Bowmen and Fletchers, vanished over time; others mutated. The Fan Makers, for example, moved into ventilation and air-conditioning. Those companies that have endured have adapted themselves
to the modern world. “Our role today”, says Cooper, “is to promote excellence, education and research; support the Lord Mayor; raise funds for charity and foster fellowship”.
A number of the 108 livery companies existing today began in Europe before 1066, and were known either as guilds or as mysteries Not so far, in fact, from their erstwhile principles.
Cooper cites one of the fi rst charitable tasks undertaken by the early guilds: caring for their members in sickness and old age. “In 1423, Richard Whittington (Dick of fairy-tale fame), Lord Mayor of London and Mercer, left, among other bequests, the equivalent of millions in today’s money for the almshouses. This is still administered by the Mercers, and similar traditions continue across the companies. Among our benefi ciaries are developing countries, the disabled, museums, libraries, housing, the arts, young people and medical research”. But some livery companies do still exert some infl uence
over trading standards too, in a regulatory role. “The Assay Offi ce at the rear of Goldsmith’s Hall is where, since 1300, they have checked gold for purity”, says Cooper. “Once marked with the London leopard’s head, it is said to be ‘hallmarked’. The Blacksmiths issue trademarks and present awards for professional accomplishment. We Fruiterers reward outstanding contributions to the industry, and instigated the annual City Food Lecture at the Guildhall”. There are three ways to become a liveryman, Cooper
explains. “Patrimony (for the child of a liveryman), redemption (nomination and payment) or servitude
78 BRITAIN
www.britain-magazine.com
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