by david vera eating in INDULGENCES
HISTORY’S CREOLE KEY-HOLE
Mardi Gras may be the bash of the season, but that doesn’t mean that your only dinner choices are limited to bar nuts and cocktail garnishes. Incredibly satisfying meals are just a quick grocery trip away. Yes, quick. Most of the ingredients that scream “gulf coast” may already be taking up space in your pantry, but first, a quick history lesson!
“Cajun” is a mutation of the French word “Acadienne.” It refers to immigrants deported
from the Acadia region in Canada to the Acadiana region of Louisiana. Known by us as “backwater” or “back-country” cuisine, gamier smoked meats are often used—even alligator! Genuine Cajun cuisine also blends the most memorable flavors of Canadian French with the African and European cultures that had already settled in Louisiana. The classical ingredient chopped mirepoix (25% carrots, 25% celery and 50% onion) is translated to “the holy trinity” (onion, celery and green bell pepper). Other staples include catfish, Boudin (pronounced boo-dan) sausage, crab, rice, rabbit, frog legs, parsley, bay leaf, green onions and cayenne pepper. “Creole” is the more metropolitan end of the Louisiana cuisine spectrum. Taking shape in New Orleans, Creole also gathers highlights from various cultures: French, Spanish, Asian-Indian, Native American and West African influences. Among other distinctions between Cajun and Creole, Cajun cuisine evolved from various provincial cuisines of the peasantry, while Creole cuisine developed from the food of wealthy aris- tocrats. Some of the tastiest examples of their indulgences include shrimp remoulade, gumbo, crawfish étouffée, grits, jambalaya, stuffed bell peppers, blackened salmon, shrimp bisque, quiche, potato salad, maque choux, red beans and dirty rice, bananas foster, bread pudding, beignets, pralines, pecan pie and fruit cobblers. Luckily for those of us in 21st century, Cajun and Creole cuisines can now be joined
together and relished at once. An important component that both of them have inher- ited from French cooking is roux—sautéed flour and fat. While the French use butter, in the bayou it is made with oil or bacon fat. This thickening and flavoring agent is an integral part of creating a velvety gumbo or étouffée. Few things complete the “Let the good times roll” spirit of Fat Tuesday like a great meal that covers all bases. Veg? Starch? Protein? Jambalaya’s got it all! Originally called “Jambon” (French for ham) ala “Yaya” (an African word for rice), this hearty dish has become a symbol of Mardi Gras over time—and now it’s yours to alter to your tastes:
CLASSIC JAMBALAYA Ingredients 1 fl oz Vegetable Oil 1 three-lb Chicken, cut into eight pieces 1 lb Onion, ¼-inch dice
3 oz Green Bell Pepper, ½-inch dice 2 oz Green Onion Tops, sliced thin 1 oz Garlic, finely minced ½ oz Parsley, minced 4 oz Baked ham, ½-inch dice 1 lb Smoked sausage, ½-inch dice Salt and black pepper to taste Chili Powder to taste Cayenne Pepper to taste 1 gram Thyme, dried 1 gram Cloves, ground 1 gram Basil, dried 1 gram Nutmeg 1 Bay Leaf
COOKING METHODS 1. Bring oil to medium heat and brown the chicken pieces. Remove them from heat. 2. Add vegetables, parsley, ham and pork. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly for 10 minutes until everything has browned. 3. Add sausages and seasonings. Continue to cook over low heat for 5 minutes. Stir and scrape bottom of pan. 4. Add rice and increase heat to medium. Cook for 5 minutes or until lightly browned. Stir and scrape bottom of pan. 5. Return chicken pieces to pot. Add stock. Mix well. Bring to boil. 6. Cover pot and reduce heat to a simmer (or place in 350-degree oven) for 35 min, stir occasionally. 7. Uncover pot and cook an additional 10 minutes. Raise heat to medium and allow rice to dry out, stirring very frequently. 8. Remove bay leaf and serve immediately.
Now all you need is a mint julep to accompany that sinfully soulful dessert, and
you’ve got yourself a perfect Cajun/Creole treat to sustain you for the festivities! After all, it takes energy to earn those beads!
MARCH 2011 | RAGE monthly 71
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