PRODUCTION INGREDIENTS NEWS
NEWS Ingredients
Old cereals rediscovered Symrise I Healthy Grains are eleven different types of cereal crop used in skin care and hair care products. Alongside traditional types such as
wheat, oats and white rice, Symrise focuses mainly on old, long-forgotten super-grains such as amaranth, quinoa or Khorasan wheat. These super- grains are valued not only for their skin care properties such as rejuvenating and firming the skin, but they also embody the concepts of good health and naturalness. Within the botanicals range Extrapone Symrise Life Essentials has for some time offered natural extracts of oats, wheat and rice for cosmetics. New additions to the portfolio are amaranth, the iconic plant of the Aztecs, Khorasan wheat, a type of wheat grain originating in Egypt, quinoa, the basic food grain of the Incas, black rice, millet, barley, rye and spelt wheat. The company has developed some cre- ative product concepts to demonstrate the highly versatile applications of the water- soluble Healthy Grains, with some inspir- ing fragrances, for products such as face care, eye care and hand care, cleansing milk, shower gel, shampoo or hair styling products.
A first – super-grains from ama- ranth, quinoa and spelt for cosmetics
Powerful active from gentle linden flower buds
Greentech I The linden tree, one of the oldest medicinal plants
Active ingredient from fresh, growing linden buds
in Europe, is said to strengthen the skin, soothe skin irritation, and act as a moisturizer. The active ingredi- ent Tilicine is now available in a for- mat adapted for skin care, and is Ecocert approved. Tilicine Derm Organic is obtained from fresh, fresh growing linden buds. The tissue is rich in growth regulators such as phytohormones, proteins and sugar. The flowers are impor- tant for the tree’s survival and the extract obtained holds high levels of active substance.
For reshapeable hairstyle creations
Mirror, mirror on the wall
Sederma I Collagen or hyaluronic acid injections are supposed to be very efficient in fighting wrinkles, but some women fear these inva- sive treatments. Most women want to tackle wrinkles in a less radical way. Sederma’s Matrixyl Synthe’6, a new member of the Matrixyl range, fills in wrinkles from the inside – both on the forehead and the crow’s feet – for a visibly smoother and plumper skin. Thanks to its ma- trikine-like effect, the active ingredient stimulates 6 major constituents of the skin matrix and the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ). In vivo stud- ies have demonstrated that, after 2 months, the forehead and crow’s feet wrinkles were visibly smoothed from the inside of the skin. Many parameters demonstrated this smoothing effect, for instance on wrinkle volume, depth and surface, and more particularly the lifting effect and the wrinkle spread.
DKSHI DKSH is now representing the Japanese company Goo Chemicals, with their wide hair styling and personal care range, in several European coun- tries. Plascize L-2700 is a new non-ion- ic acrylic polymer specifically designed for reshapeable hair styling composi- tion. Because of the good solubility in water, ethanol and LPG, the polymer can be added to various hair cosmetic products. It has a tacky effect in hair restyling products such as aerosols, mousses, mists or waxes. The restyling ability has been evaluated for 10 hours after the application. The polymer of- fers good washability and shows no build-up effect. It can also be used in skin-care and wrinkle reduction formulations.
The polymer can also be used in skin care formulations
Versatile hair gel formulations
A powerful anti-wrinkle peptide acting on 6 skin-rebuilding essentials Before (left), after (right)
30 COSSMA 1-2I2011
NRCI The applications laboratory at Nordmann, Rassmann (NRC), which for more than 1 year now has been under the direction of Gor- don Christ and the product developer Annika Küster, has developed some hair gel formulations in line with the latest trends. The basic formulation and analysis of hair gel always includes a poly- mer and a thickener. Depending on the properties of the polymer differ- ent strengths of gel can be developed. Using Eastman’s AQ Polymer 48 U a gel for normal hold is produced. With AQ Polymer 55 S a gel with stronger hold is produced. To produce gels with other effects different ingredients with different properties are blended in. Depending on the final objective a product with, for example, the visco-elastic effect of Dow‘s Polyox WSR-301, a gel for hair care and hair styling with Momentive’s Silsoft Q or a clear, perfumed gel using Sasol’s Cosmocol/N-II-9 can be developed.
photo: Symrise
photos: Sederma
photo: Greentech
photo: Garnier
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