EDITORIAL
Natural cosmetics
Think outside the box
The natural trend and the sustainability trend are unlikely to disappear in the next few years, rather they will have to become part of a well-founded profitable business. But it won’t just be enough to launch new “eco-cer- tified” ingredients. Any new “green” ingredients will have to perform as well or better than their conven- tional counterparts. And this caveat also applies to safety evaluation – a factor that will keep the ingredients manufacturers on their toes in the coming years. Well-document- ed, synthetic ingredients already have their safety aspects and evaluations well covered, but what about safety evaluation of natural ingredients? You can find out more about this potential problem in our interview with Dr. Gerhard Nohynek of L’Oréal, starting on page 26. It is also very interesting to know if there are sub- stances that the consumer will not accept in natu- ral cosmetics. In a presentation by Kline* entitled “The best of both worlds – reaping the benefits of natural and natural-inspired products” we learn that a number of substances, including parabens, propylene glycol, phthalates, petrolatum, chemical UV filters, silicones and aggressive surfactants such as sodium lauryl sulphate, are seen as unac- ceptable by many “green” consumers. However, the extent to which the rejection of these sub- stances is based on fact or just a “gut feel” is alto- gether another question.
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Dr. Karl Lintner of Kal’Idées is nevertheless convinced that the rejection of these ingredients neglects certain key as- pects. And Johann Wiechers of JW Solutions, in his talk “Natural Ingredients – the new cosmetic religion”, made a clear point: “The body does not differentiate between plant-derived CH2
OH-CHOH-CH2 mal-derived CH2OH-CHOH-CH2
OH (glycerine) and ani- OH (glycerine) because
they are both exactly the same. Another topic that is sure to take an increased profile in the future is sustainability. It is not, when compared with “nat- ural”, a highly interesting subject from a marketing point of view. But just how natural is a natural cosmetics product, with certified ingredients but one that cannot be produced in a sustainable way? The fact is that there is still a lot to do
before the subject of natural cosmetics is totally clarified. * Presentation at the Natural Beauty Summit (Paris, November 2010) Let’s get moving!
Yours
Angelika Meiss Senior editor, COSSMA
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