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Dev’s game for ‘wild and exotic’ menu


Chef Dev Biswal has introduced a ‘Wild and Exotic’ menu at his Michelin-listed restaurant Ambrette in Margate. Starters now include South West African Ostrich Brochette, which is smoked with cloves then chargrilled on a low flame. According to Dev, “Ostrich is subtly flavoured, low in fat and choles- terol with high iron content. “ Tender boneless Fillet of Python from Vietnam is flamed with Indian dark rum then slow cooked in an Indian-style rich tomato and onion sauce for five hours. Dev adds, “Practically all snakes are edible. Until the 18th century, snake-based diets were very fashionable in France for their benefi- cial effects on health and beauty. “


The Fillet of Crocodile from Southern Africa slow is cooked for several hours in an aromatic coastal Indian-style sauce of coconut, tamarind and spices. A white meat, its nutritional com- position compares favourably with that of more traditional meats. According to Dev, “It has a delicate flavour, is low in fat and high in pro- tein. Crocodile is considered to be a delicacy in Ethiopia and some South American countries. “


Also on the menu is Zebra Steak, pan-grilled and served with a sauce of plums, ginger and black pepper. Sweeter than beef, Zebra is a red meat that still retains a game flavour. Dev serves Burchell’s zebra, the only type that can be legally hunted. Wild Boar from North America is pan-grilled and served with an aromatic and spicy Goan vin- daloo sauce flavoured with malt vinegar, garlic and chillies. An ancestor of the domestic pig, wild boar meat is leaner and deeper red than pork “The rarer an ingredient, the more it fires me up,” admits Dev. “It’s naturally exciting when there is an opportunity to cook


exotic meats such as python, a water buffalo and fillets of croc- odile tail.” As long as the habitat is protected and hunting is done sustainably, Dev says there are many advan- tages in eating wild animals over those that are farmed. “To top it all the exotic meats taste amaz- ing – like everything else in life you don’t know it until you have experienced it,” he concludes. Dev Biswal grew up in Calcutta and trained at the Dubai Sheraton, before moving to London, aged 26 in 2003 for spells at Mangoes and Eriki. Mr Biswal is also a director of Quex Park, with responsibility for catering.


Spice Business Magazine


19


December 2010


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