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The ArT of fine CusTom Jewelry Of all the genres of art, the most commoditized and perhaps least understood, is jewelry.


Te art that people own (or wear) is a clear statement of who they are and how they perceive the world around them. A qualified jewelry designer and artist has the ability to guide your design concepts to a finished piece that is an authentic and honest reflection of you.


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Te Guiding Principles (things to consider when designing custom jewelry):


RATIO Te compatibility of the elements of a piece of jewelry (gem stones, metal color and finish, etc.) is dictated by the optical volume as perceived by the admirer. Te golden ratio (phi) for optimal volume is used extensively in the layout of fine jewelry pieces. Interest- ingly, this same ratio (approximately 1.618:1) is seen often in nature. Te Nautilus shell, pine cones, sun- flowers and even the idealized human body, are all designed around the golden ratio.


BALANCE Most jewelry is designed with its left side mirroring the right. From a design point of view, this limits the creative process and forces the designer to, in essence, design half a piece. While this is often the correct way to approach a design, it’s by no means the only option. Balance can be achieved in an asymmetrical piece if the golden ratio is applied.


FEEL Wearable art (jewelry) must be pleasing to the eye and have a feel that makes it irresistible. Te feel of a piece of jew- elry is a function of its weight as well as its form. Weight can


be added by simply making the elements heavier or reduced by removing metal from parts of the piece not visible when worn. Te choice of metals will also influence the weight. 18 karat gold is 20 percent heavier than 14 karat. Plati- num is 60 percent heavier than 14 karat gold.


DETAIL Fine jewelry is made, one piece at a time, utilizing high-powered bin- ocular microscopes. Countless unseen details are often the dif- ference between mediocre and magnificent.


EXECUTION Art is the combination of concept and execution. Tey cannot exist independently of each other. A concept, howev- er creative, can only be as good as the execution of the piece. For this reason, it’s important to


work with a designer who remains intimately involved with their de- sign from start to finish. Tey need to understand metallurgy as well as process, and should be in an environment where creative


talents are not limited by the tools available. Great con-


cepts, state-of-the-art tools and extraordinary metal smiths results in extraordinary jewelry.


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