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Figs and cauliflowers to the fore!


GROW IT - EAT IT


Adam and Eve may have found that the leaves of the fig spared their blushes, but it’s the fruit that gets lots of gardeners excited. And rightly so.


There is little better than the fig tree’s produce, while it is still warm from the sun, straight from your garden. Dried figs are equally nutritious by the way. Figs are great for a small garden. They take up little space, are easy to care for, and produce delicious fruit.


A fig tree will succeed best in a sheltered position in full sun. A south or south-west facing wall is ideal for growing and training a fan-shaped fig - use horizontal wires fixed to the wall 45cm (18in) apart.


It is vital the roots are contained and not allowed to spread. Left to its own devices, the tree will make vigorous growth at the expense of a good crop of fruit. There are two ways to restrict the root run.


1. Grow the tree in a 45cm (18in) diameter pot of soil-based compost. Keep the top of the soil 7cm-10cm (3in-4in) below the rim of the pot to allow an annual spring top-up with compost, as well as to facilitate watering and feeding. Either plunge the pot into the soil against the wall or keep it above ground.


2. Plant into the soil at the base of the wall where the root run is restricted to a planting pit that is 60cm by 60cm (2ft by 2ft) and 60cm (2ft) deep. Dig the hole directly in front of the wall, bearing in mind that it involves a lot of digging and several barrow-loads of soil.


Prune established trees in June, shortening all the side shoots back to five leaves from the main framework of branches. In September, remove any fruit larger than small pea size. The remaining tiny, embryo fruit towards the ends of the shoots will over-winter and, providing they have protection from icy blasts, will ripen the following year.


Prune the tree in late spring, removing shoots and buds that are pointing inwards, as well as those pointing directly out from the wall, and any growths damaged by late frost. Remove debris and prunings, and apply a 10cm (4in) deep layer of farmyard manure over the root area.


When the fruit starts to swell apply a high-potash liquid feed such as tomato fertiliser weekly.


Figs are easily propagated by layering. Bend a suitably low branch to the ground and where it meets the soil, wound the stem by cutting part way through. Loosen the soil and add compost.


Peg the branch down using U-shaped pins and bend wires either side of the wounded area. Cover with more soil, water the ground and place a flat stone on top.


Within 12 months you will have a well-rooted large layer. Cut the branch on the tree side and pot up or plant out your new fig tree.


In early spring, the fruits will form on the branches before they flower. By May, the tree has fully leafed out. Be careful; fussing with its branches can cause the young fruit buds to drop. The fruits may start dropping by June. This is normal but can cause quite a mess; wasps may also be attracted.


The second crop grows on wood produced the same year. It will ripen unaided if your temperatures stay above 15 degrees C for a few months. An Indian summer can help this process along, but most enthusiastic fig growers do one of the following:


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There is little better than the fig tree’s produce, while it is still warm from the sun, straight from your garden


14


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Country Gardener


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