This page contains a Flash digital edition of a book.
u

b

© Lonely Planet Publications

188

Kandahar & Southern Afghanistan

نﺎﺘﺴﻧﺎﻐﻓا بﻮﻨﺟ و رﺎﻫﺪﻨ

The occasional black turban of a Talib, the white turban of the returning Haj pilgrim, the dirty boys in ragged shalwar kameez playing in the street, the fleeting pair of burqas billowing in the wind, the pick-up trucks brimming with rugged fighters, the henna-haired old man with his bird cages, the Pashtuns. Southern Afghanistan and Kandahar, its gateway city, is the crown of Pashtunwali and the Pashtun way of life – a culture that is questionably stronger than the religion many mistake it for.

Mullah Omar commanded the Taliban from here, he welcomed Osama Bin Laden

here and the first ever democratically elected President of Afghanistan came from here. Politically and historically the south is the most significant region in Afghanistan.

Kandahar city at dusk from a roof top is Asia at its most beguiling – kites swinging in the air, pigeons tinkling back to perch, few buildings higher than two stories, mud roofs, and the desert mountains beyond – this could lull you into believing this was a peaceful, middling city, the hub of a wheel whose spokes lead to Oruzgan in the north, Helmand and Nimroz beyond to the west, Pakistan to the south and a climb to Kabul through Zabul and Ghazni in the east. But its charms remain locked securely behind high-walled compounds and few know the region for more than the draconian regime of the Taliban.

The tragedy of the south is that is has so much to offer in terms of the warm Pashtun

culture of welcoming strangers and feeding them the finest fare of the household, world-class fruit and vegetables, and eerie landscapes where you can see a river bed, desert mountains and the curve of the earth in a single vista, but the extreme politics and violence that have and continue to consume the area mean that very few get to see it.

HIGHLIGHTS

 Sunrise over Kandahar and beyond from the Forty Steps ( p193 )

 Climb to the top of Baba Wali Shrine ( p193 ) in Kandahar and look out over Arghandab Valley, followed by fresh juices and ice cream

 Explore the Towers of Victory ( p196 ) and other remnants of the empire in Ghazni

Kandahar Ghazni

lonelyplanet.com

KANDAHAR & SOUTHERN AFGHANISTAN 189

Kandahar & Southern Afghanistan

SOUTHERN AFGHANISTAN KANDAHAR &

SOUTHERN AFGHANISTAN KANDAHAR &

KANDAHAR & SOUTHERN AFGHANISTAN

Gergi

Qaleh-ye Tagab Eshlan

To Herat (30km)

Tanora Yazdan Adraskan Kharcan Kamar Zard Owkal Darvaji Bala Azaw Anar Darreh

Robat-e Khoshk Aveh

Farah

Char Rah

Farah

Do Qaleh Now Deh Buri

Chah-e Kerten

Samur Mir Ghul Borj-e Zabol Deh Vana

Mohammadabad

I R A N

Girdi

Bandare Wasate

Harmak

Nimroz

Chahar Borjak

d

Taghaz Malakhan

Haji Sarwarkhan Kalay

Khwaja Ali Sehyaka

Helmand

Mandowzi Seyyed Buskali

Zahedan Manguuchar Amir Chah Butak

Ziarat Mallk Bisilani

Johan Bilao Kahan

Qal A-i- naw

Zaranj

Qurya Garmser

Yasinzai Kalay

Sar Banader

Alimardan Khan-e Bagat

Kandahar

Serah Tsahan Kingri

Towrzi Aydowzi

Quetta

P A K I S T A N

Ismail Shahr Barkhan Lalgarh Rakhni

Lash-e Joveyn

Qarya- i-alikhan

Lowkhi Loy Radzay Khormaleq

Soltan-e Bakva

Delaram Khwajamard Tall Kala Girishk

Chahar Bagh Loy Bagh

Shurakian Yakhchal Juy Sarkar

Lashkar Gah

Marjeh Aynak

Kajaki Dam

Kandahar

Senjaray

Molia Ashraf

Ruhabad

Nevay Deh Takhteh Pol

Spin Boldak Chaman

Banau Kheyl

Maruf Angizay Tablai Kili Sagai Sharan Jogizai Musa Khel Bazar Fort Sandeman Lalak Khavay Now Zad Sangin

Kalateh- ye Baghni

Musa Qala Kajaki Kowndalan Asad Bagntu

Qalat

Jaldak Shinkay Shindand Kham Khorki Gur Zanak Deh Ravod Tirin Kot Sardagh Or Dobolagh Marjaneh

Dardkht-e Yahya

Wur Kaza Sayagaz Monari Oruzgan Khakeran

Oruzgan Paktika

Shkin Moqor

Zarghun Shahr

Teyvareh Qalamcasma

Dahane Kaftarkhan

Pasaband Sangan Sinay

Kandu- ye Bala

Tamazan Sarnay

Zin

Qos Tirdawan Masjed Negar

Qocanghi

Shosh-e Sofla

Jangiay Dangak Airestan Caqmaq Malestan Jaghori

Qalai Khan

Towers of Victory

Ghazni

Qarah Bagh Luman

Ramak

0200 km 0

Shekhabad

To Kabul (85km)

Gardez

Yaqubi Khost Mota Khan Tani Muskhel Soltani Worzhanah Kalay

120 miles

H

e

l

m

a

F a r

n

r

d

h

g

a h

A

e H

l

a m

n

K

a

h

a

n

s

h

d

H

a

a

r

t Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  |  Page 5  |  Page 6  |  Page 7  |  Page 8  |  Page 9  |  Page 10  |  Page 11  |  Page 12  |  Page 13  |  Page 14  |  Page 15  |  Page 16  |  Page 17  |  Page 18  |  Page 19  |  Page 20  |  Page 21  |  Page 22  |  Page 23  |  Page 24  |  Page 25  |  Page 26  |  Page 27  |  Page 28  |  Page 29  |  Page 30  |  Page 31  |  Page 32  |  Page 33  |  Page 34  |  Page 35  |  Page 36  |  Page 37  |  Page 38  |  Page 39  |  Page 40  |  Page 41  |  Page 42  |  Page 43  |  Page 44  |  Page 45  |  Page 46  |  Page 47  |  Page 48  |  Page 49  |  Page 50  |  Page 51  |  Page 52  |  Page 53  |  Page 54  |  Page 55  |  Page 56  |  Page 57  |  Page 58  |  Page 59  |  Page 60  |  Page 61  |  Page 62  |  Page 63  |  Page 64  |  Page 65  |  Page 66  |  Page 67  |  Page 68  |  Page 69  |  Page 70  |  Page 71  |  Page 72  |  Page 73  |  Page 74  |  Page 75  |  Page 76  |  Page 77  |  Page 78  |  Page 79  |  Page 80  |  Page 81  |  Page 82  |  Page 83  |  Page 84  |  Page 85  |  Page 86  |  Page 87  |  Page 88  |  Page 89  |  Page 90  |  Page 91  |  Page 92  |  Page 93  |  Page 94  |  Page 95  |  Page 96  |  Page 97  |  Page 98  |  Page 99  |  Page 100  |  Page 101  |  Page 102  |  Page 103  |  Page 104  |  Page 105  |  Page 106  |  Page 107  |  Page 108  |  Page 109  |  Page 110  |  Page 111  |  Page 112  |  Page 113  |  Page 114  |  Page 115  |  Page 116  |  Page 117  |  Page 118  |  Page 119  |  Page 120  |  Page 121  |  Page 122  |  Page 123
Produced with Yudu - www.yudu.com