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242 Index (G-O)

geography 64 Ghazni 196-7 golf 109, 12 Goz Khun 170 Great Game, the 30, 125

H

Hadda 184

hammam 199-200 Hazaras 45 Hazrat Ali, Shrine of 157, 7 health 221-6

Hekmatyar, Gulbuddin 186

Herat 132-42, 133, 5, 174, 175, 177, 179

accommodation 140 attractions 135-40 drinking 140-1 food 140-1 shopping 141

travel to/from 141-2 travel within 142

hiking 167-72, 200 Hinduism 49 history 25-40 hitching 220 HIV 224

holidays 17, 205 hot springs 128-9, 169 hunting 67

I

immigration 212 insect bites & stings 226 insurance

health 221 travel 205 insurgency 71 internet access 206 internet resources 19 Irshad Uween 172 Ishkashim 167 Islam 47-9

Islamic holy days 203-4 Istalif 107-8 itineraries 20-4

J

Jalalabad 182-4, 8 Jam, Minaret of 127, 7 Jami, Mawlana Abdur Rahman 139 Jebal Saraj 112 Judaism 49

000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages

K

Ka Faroshi Bird Market 90, 6

Kabul 79-105, 80, 85, 93, 9, 10,

176, 179

accommodation 95-8 attractions 87-95 drinking 101-2 entertainment 102 events 95 festivals 95 food 98-101 itineraries 20 shopping 102-3 travel to/from 103-4 travel within 104-5

Kabul Museum 88-9, 179 Kakrak Valley 119 Kamdesh 187 Kandahar 190-5, 192, 12 Karzaid, Hamid 38 Kashch Goz 171 kayaking 110, 200 Khan, Genghis 28 Khandud 169-70 Khoja Abu Nasr Parsa, Shrine of

156-7, 6

Khwaja Bahauddin 163 Khyber Pass 185 kidnapping 72-3 kite flying 58, 93, 95, 117 Kol-e Hashmat Khan 66 Kotal-e Shaur 171 Kuchi 46

Kunduz 160-2, 161

L

Lake Shewa 166 Lal-o-Sar Jangal 125-6

landays 52

landmines 67 languages Dari 227-30 Pashto 231-2

Lashkar Gah 197 legal matters 206 leishmaniasis 224 lesbian travellers 205 Little Pamir 171-2 Lower Wakhan 169-70

M

Mahmoud the Great 27

mail services 208 Maimana 143-4 malaria 224 maps 206

markets

Herat 141 Kabul 90, 93, 101, 6 Samangan 158

Massoud, Ahmad Shah 38, 39, 111 mausoleums Herat 138 Jalalabad 183 Kabul 92-3, 94, 178 Kandahar 193

Mazar-e Sharif 148-55 medical services 223

metric conversions, see inside front cover

Minaret of Jam 126-8, 7 mines 71-2 Mir Samir 187, 11

Mohammed, Prophet 47-9, 193 monasteries 158-9

money 18, 206-7, see also inside front cover

mosques 21, 55-6 Balkh 157 Friday Mosque 136-7, 177, 179

Herat 136-7, 177, 179

Kabul 88, 94-5 Kandahar 193

mujaheddin 35-6 Musalla Complex 137-8 museums 88-9, 92, 93-4, 179 music 54-5

N

Nangahar province 182, 9 National Archive 92 National Gallery 91-2 national parks, sanctuaries & wildlife reserves 66 Ab-i-Estada 66 Ajar Valley 66 Band-e Amir National Park 66,

122-4, 122, 7, 11

Big Pamir 66, 170-1 Kol-e Hashmat Khan 66 Registan Desert Reserve 66 Nauroz 95, 204 newspapers 58 Nimla Gardens 184-5 No Gombad Mosque 157 Noshaq 169 Nuristan 186-7

O

Obey 128-9 OMAR Land Mine Museum 93-4 opium 15, 43, 73, 164, 183, 196, 197, 8

P

Paghman 108 Pamir 24, 167-72 Panjshir Valley 110-12, 8, 10 parks & gardens Babur’s Gardens 87-8, 177 Herat 140 Jalalabad 183 Kabul 87-8 Nimla Gardens 184-5

Pashtuns 44-5 pashtunwali 44

phone codes, see inside front cover

photography 207-8

planning 16-19, see also

itineraries

plants 66 poaching 67 poetry 49-53

poliomyelitis 224-5

politics 15, 30, 41-2, 43, 45, 50-1, 57-8, 82, 149 pollution 67 population 44-7 postal services 208

Prophet Mohammed 47-9, 193 Pul-e Khumri 159-60 Pul-e Malan 140

Q

Qala-e Nau 142-3 Qargha Lake 108-9 Qazideh 169 Qila-e Panja 170

R

rabies 225 radio 57-8 Rahman, Abdur 31-2 Ramazan 204-5 Registan Desert Reserve 66 registration 208

religion 47-9, see also individual religions

religious festivals 203-4 Rostam 159 Rukh, Shah 28

S

safety 16-19, 68-75, 201 accommodation 97 air travel 213

Badghis province 142 Bamiyan 114 Eastern Afghanistan 183 Herat 132, 135

Kabul 81, 87 Kandahar 193 Mazar-e Sharif 149, 152 Northwestern Afghanistan 132

Paghman 108 Panjshir Valley 110, 111 Southern Afghanistan 190

Salang Pass 112, 9 Samangan (Aibak) 158 sanctuaries, see national parks, sanctuaries & wildlife reserves

Sarhad-e Broghil 170 security, see safety Shad, Gowhar 138 Shah, Nadir 92 Shah, Timur 28, 94 Shahr-e Doh Shamshira Mosque

94-95, 180

Shahr-e Gholghola 119 Shahr-e Zohak 119-20 Shahzada Abdullah 139 Shibar Pass 121 Shiberghan 145-6 shopping 208-9 Shrine of Hazrat Ali 152, 7 Shrine of Khoja Abu Nasr Parsa

156-7, 6

Sikhism 49 Silk Road, the 26, 27

Soviet Union 30, 36, 37, 43, 81 sports 57 Spreg Shir Uween 171 Sultani Museum 92 Surkh Kotal 160

T

Tajiks 45 Takht-e Rostam 159 Takht-e Safar 140 Taliban 15, 16, 37-9, 40, 45, 50, 68, 77, 145 alcohol 61

Bamiyan 114, 116, 119 books 18, 41 cinema 56-7 economy 43 Hadda 184

Herat 132, 134-5 Kabul 82, 88, 89, 91 Kandahar 190, 191 Mazar-e Sharif 151 music 55 religion 48-9 sport 57, 58

Tashkurgan 158 taxi travel 220

Index (P-Z) 243

telephone services 209, see also inside front cover

time 209

toilets 209-10 tombs

Balkh 157

Chaqmaqtin Lake 172 Chist-e Sharif 128 Herat 138, 139 Kabul 87, 92-3 Mazar-e Sharif 152 Panjshir Valley 111 Tora Bora 185 Torkham 185 tourist information 210 tours 17, 217

travellers cheques 207 travel to/from Afghanistan 212 travel within Afghanistan 218-20 trekking 24, 168-9, 200 tuberculosis 225 Turkmen 46-7 TV 58

typhoid 225

U

Upper Wakhan 170 UXOs 71-2 Uzbeks 45-6

V

vacations 17, 205 vaccinations 221-2 vegetarian travellers 61 visas 210-11

W

Wakhan 24, 167-72 Wakhjir Valley 172 War on Terror, the 15, 40, 110, 190, 191 weather 200-1 wildlife reserves, see national parks, sanctuaries & wildlife reserves women in Afghanistan 42, 46, 50-1, 52, 191

women travellers 211 women’s health 226 working in Afghanistan 76-8

Y

Yawkawlang 125

Z

Zahir, Ahmad 54 Zarnegar Khana 139 Ziarats 49 zoos 91

Zorkol 170-1

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