FAKE TANNING
of Vita Liberata, advises a mousse formula: “Mousse is the nearest to the consistency
of a spray tan, but is temporarily solid when it is pumped from the bottle. This can make it less messy than a lotion, but being water based it is less moisturising than a gel.” A wash off tan is great for those wary
of committing to a full artifi cal tan but who would still like a bit of colour, and it is an area of the market that is ever-expanding. Baker says: “Wash off is fantastic for those last minute invites. It’s also ideal for fi rst time tanners; if you make a mistake you can simply wash it off and start again so it’s a great product to master application with and then switch over to a self tan product once you feel more confi dent. Some consumers are also allergic to the tanning agent DHA so this allows them to have a tan without the worry of an allergic reaction from that ingredient.” Gradual tans are also great for fi rst time users as they allow you to gradually build up an even tan and control the colour. Gillian Newman, co- founder and director of Makebelieve says: “If your customer is new to self tanning it’s probably best to start with a gradual fake tan such as Makebelieve’s Gradual Self Tan.”
ALL IN THE PREPARATION
Preparation is key to a fl awless, long lasting and natural looking tan and there really is no excuse for streaks and blotches if you apply and prepare correctly, says Harknett. “Ideally, two days before tan application you should wax away hair and follow with an intensive moisturiser. This will ensure that skin is both smooth and hydrated.” Exfoliation is the next key step in preparation. Products such as St Tropez’s Body Polish are specifi cally formulated to gently buff away dead skin cells for smooth application. Baker adds: “Focus on drier areas such as hands, elbows, knees and feet as these tend to be the areas where the self tan develops darker due to the dryness of the skin. Use a small amount of body moisturiser prior to self tan application on the hands, elbows, knees and feet as this will also protect these areas from developing too dark, for a more natural result.”
APPLICATION RULES
Before applying a fake tan, advise your customers to remove any moisturiser, make up and deodorant as this can block the skin leading to an uneven tan. Harknett adds: “Moisturiser acts as an incredible barrier for fake tan, so use small half moon-shaped smears to blend tan on wrists and ankles and around the hairline.” Many experts
44
Pure Beauty May 2010
FAKE TANNING TIPS FROM THE TOP
• Always exfoliate prior to tan application and then every two to three days after. • Keep your skin hydrated by moisturising daily to make your tan last longer. • For an all year round seasonal glow, use a gradual tan during the winter and autumn and then switch to a self tan product in the spring and summer months.
• Always use body moisturiser on the hands, elbows, knees and feet prior to a self tan application to prevent over developing.
• A darker tan is back in fashion this year and needs extra preparation and maintenance.
• For a slimming effect, apply an extra coat of self tan the following day and focus on areas such as the outer arm, side torso, inner and outer leg. The extra depth of colour has a defi ning effect.
• Apply moisturiser to the eyebrows prior to self tan application to prevent them staining, and then use a cotton bud to wipe off the excess after the application.
• If you suffer from vitiligo (the appearance of white patches on the skin) apply a self tan product to the white areas two days in a row to help disguise this condition.
• Wipe the knuckles and keep fi ngers closed during application for a natural result on the hands.
“A wash off tan is great for those wary of committing to a full artifi cal tan but who would still like a bit of colour”
advise applying the tan from the centre of the limbs to the outer areas, which will prevent the tan over developing on the drier areas of the body. Hogg adds: “To make the hands realistic (as those and the feet can be giveawayS!) apply the tan with your fi ngers closed and then lightly blend along the upper edges of the fi ngers. This will leave you with white skin between the fi ngers which is exactly how your fi ngers look when you have been in the sun. Blend around the wrist making sure that you avoid the tougher skin on the heel of the hand (the corner opposite the base of your thumb). Blend away from the wrist, making sure that the lines near to the base of the palm are not too deeply tanned - if you think they might be then wipe with a slightly damp cloth. If you have applied with bare hands then scrub the palms of your hand with a nail brush that has been scraped across a bar of soap. Next, wipe off the palms and between the fi ngers with a damp cloth. For the feet, be sure to moisturise the heel before tanning, and wipe it with a damp cloth after tanning. For beach feet remember to tan only the top of
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the foot, blending lightly at the edges. Don’t tan down the side of the foot. Even after three weeks on a beach in the Maldives the sides of the feet stay white.”
Then leave the product on the skin to develop for between four to 12 hours.
AFTER CARE
The key to tan maintenance is moisturise, moisturise, moisturise – then exfoliate a little! Buffi ng every two to three days after application will ensure the tan fades smoothly, but if the skin is dry and dehydrated the tan will fade faster so moisturising is essential. Baker says: “Be careful of shower gels that contain essential oils as these will strip the tan down faster. St Tropez Shower Cream contains natural Mediterranean oils so this will help to lock in the moisture while you shower/bathe and protect the tan.” Hogg adds: “Don’t lie in the bath unless you want to transfer the tan to the side of the bath! Use skin conditioning products, and make sure to use a good quality tan in the fi rst place that is rich in extracts to nourish the skin as well as tan.”
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