food/drink
pic: WWW.JAKEMORLEY.CO.UK
WATERLOO GARDENS TEAHOUSE ****
Penylan, Cardiff. 029 2045 6073
It is fair to say that Waterloo Gardens Teahouse do not do afternoon tea by halves. One sunny afternoon in April, I’m sitting behind a silver three-tier tray of finger sandwiches, homemade cake and scones, flanked by steaming pots of ancient emerald lily and white silver needle tea. It’s enough to make me feel underdressed for the occasion. But for a tradition as refined and quaintly British as afternoon tea, it simply wouldn’t do to have it any other way. Waterloo Gardens Teahouse are renowned for serving a dizzyingly extensive menu of tea and coffee in an unpretentious setting, so it’s comforting to know that they also bake some very good homemade cakes. My friends and I started with an assortment of finger sandwiches, before moving on to their warm, homemade scones, served with lashings of clotted cream and jam. They were fantastic scones – golden and crumbly on the outside with a dense, doughy centre. I chose a white chocolate and raspberry cake to finish. A moist, thick wedge that wasn’t too sweet, it was spot on. All this was washed down with our choice of tea; I opted for a pot of chai. I have never come across a tea shop that sells chai brewed on the hob with all the proper Indian spices, and their rendition of this festival staple was good. More conventional teas are also available – just don’t expect teabags. At £11.50 a head, high tea comes at a high price. But it’s impossible not to be drawn in by the charm of Waterloo Tea Gardens, who really do make afternoon tea better than anyone in the area. BEN BRYANT
pic: WWW.JAKEMORLEY.CO.UK
SALE PEPE ****
St David’s Centre, Cardiff. 029 2023 1678
The St David’s Centre is dominated by heavyweight Italian chains Jamie’s Italian, Carluccio’s and Bellini’s Express, so it’s a brave independent that pitches itself against these competitors. Sale Pepe is an Italian with a twist: they don’t serve any pasta or pizza. Instead, their menu features a broad selection of other Italian staples – such as piadina, a thin Italian flatbread with toppings – that set it apart from the competition. My friend and I skipped starters and tucked straight into a sardine, olive and garlic piadina (£7.50) and an artichoke and courgette risotto (£7.50) respectively. The risotto was excellent – creamy, rich and full of flavour. My friend was also very pleased with his piadina, which was a bit like a posh pizza and looked delicious. We followed with a vanilla pannacotta with coffee granita (£5.95)and a frangelico affogato (£5.95). These are two of my favourite desserts, and both were well executed. My friend’s vanilla pannacotta was light and fragrant, while my dessert, a mixture of espresso, hazelnut liqueur and ice cream, was very lovely indeed. The chef behind Sale Pepe is no novice, having worked at the acclaimed Walnut Tree in Abergavenny, and his experience shows in everything from the food to the décor. It’s an impressive addition to the centre, with its sleek wooden finish and big, glass windows, and their menu really is excellent value for money – particu- larly when you place it against its immediate competitors. Those who spurn its big-name neighbours in favour of this plucky little Italian will not be disappointed.
BEN BRYANT
CARLUCCIO’S ****
Mill Lane, Cardiff. 029 2023 2630
This is the latest opening in a succession of eateries – including several in Dubai – by the legendary silver fox Antonio Carluccio. From his humble beginnings in Salerno on the beautiful Amalfi Coast in Italy, Antonio has created a restaurant empire, a string of world renowned books and also makes time for regular TV appearances. Antonio can often be seen joking alongside the likes of Jamie Oliver and James Martin on their various shows. As an Italian food lover, I was equally as interested to see the food shop, which is as much a part of all the restaurants as the cafe, restaurant and deli. Bright, airy and welcoming, the interior was busy and full of chatter, as an Italian restaurant should be. There was plenty to choose from, including the specials of the day: asparagus with Jersey potatoes and Parma ham cooked in butter, and a calamari fritti with lemon. Both were excellent, and were delivered and presented with a straightforward, no-frills approach. Mains arrived in the form of branzino con salsa e patate, a fillet of sea bass pan-fried with a tomato salsa and sautéed potatoes, and the other specials option: chicken risotto. Again, all arrived with no fuss, completely fresh and delicious.
A crisp bottle of Frascati Superiore ‘Crio’ San Marco Lazio was perfect with pasta and white meat, followed by a shared vanilla panna cotta with raspberry coulis and fresh raspberries.
Despite being a chain, albeit an above average one, with masses of input from the founder, Carluccio’s maintains great quality, perfect service and authentic atmosphere. It also does an impressive amount of charity support , which in this climate is thoroughly commendable. Cost for two with wine was around £65. LANCE HARRISON
BUZZ 34
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