trends: wool
Wool has long been the
forgotten treasure of the
retail industry, abandoned as
Following the herd
bulky and old-fashioned in
favour of new and manmade
Why wool is set to warm up your profits By Naomi Davis
materials. However over the
last year there has been a
resurgence in its popularity
and wool is set to be a key
N
ews broke this January that the pattern and textures.” She started up Lowie
Prince of Wales is officially attempt- in 2002 to showcase what soft wools and
ing to rebrand wool. The fabric that hand knitting could achieve. “I love design-
fabric in 2010-11 in both
has - over the last two decades - come to ing things from wool knit that might
fashion and housewares. DSB
be associated with grannies, itchiness and ordinarily be thought of as a woven piece;
looks at why it is back and
novelty jumpers. The announcement of a tea dress, a jumpsuit, a fitted jacket and
how it can be used to achieve his aim to reinvent wool as both eco- matching fitted skirt, a city girls’ work dress
knitted perfection.
friendly and fashionable came with a twist. It can be chunky and light, can
appropriately in the month that saw snow be pleated and gathered and it’s easy to mix
and ice sweep the country, and made different weights,” she says. Lowenthal says
many of us pull out our thickest jumpers. that the perception of wool is already
For centuries wool served as the changing, “What used to be perceived as
backbone of the UK’s economy and granny’s homemade jumper can now be a
a staple fabric for clothing, providing clothes sexy piece of outerwear which says ‘I’m
that kept wearers warm and dry. However comfortable with who I am and I know I
as advances in central heating came, the can stay cosy and be sexy at the same time’.
need for thick sweaters diminished. Man- Thick knit jackets and ‘coatigans’ are be-
made fabrics became popular due to their coming especially popular, in particular with
affordability, versatility and ease of care and [those] that spend a lot of time rushing
quickly wool came to be seen as old fash- around and don’t want to be constantly
ioned and unnecessarily bulky. Fast-forward taking a heavy woven coat off and on.”
“People are embracing natural fibres and
appreciating the natural properties, breathability
and comfort that wool provides” Lilian Bucke, Jaeger
to 2010 and as the UK’s economy struggles Whilst clothing is an obvious use for
to grow and emphasis is placed on reducing wool, it is an extremely versatile material
our carbon footprint, it seems the ideal time that can be used for anything from reusable
to be reminded of the fabric’s benefits. A nappies to home insulation and housewares
natural and sustainable fibre, wool offers is another vital area for growth within this
great eco-credentials and whilst Australia trend. The fabric’s natural ability to insulate
and New Zealand are two key exporters, the and absorb moisture makes it a popular
UK’s existing farming industry offers great choice for bedding that can be used year-
potential for the proposed sea change in at- round. According to Australian Wool
titudes. Interest in sustainability and British Innovation (AWI), wool bedding can offer
heritage is likely to lead to a surge for wool- an improved night’s sleep by drawing mois-
based products, particularly when ture away from the skin, and can calm
consumers prepare for Autumn/Winter 10. allergenic problems due to its ability to in-
Fashion is of course a core market for hibit bacteria. Furthermore, it’s naturally
wool and increasingly designers are showing flame resistant which is crucially beneficial to
how it can be used to create chic and wear- upholstery, carpets, rugs, blankets and other
able pieces for every season. Savile Row soft furnishings. AWI reports that due to this
staple Gieves & Hawkes has long been using quality, wool often complies with interna-
it to produce luxury suits that are beautifully tional flammability regulations without the
tailored and built to last, and judging from need for additional treatments. Its soft finish
their vibrant Spring/Summer 10 collection, and safety credentials make it a favourite in
there isn’t a granny’s knitting needle in bedding for babies. Its durability and sump-
sight! Fashion icon Jaeger prides itself on tuous texture add to its appeal as a carpet
using natural fibres such as silk, cashmere fibre and there is a growing choice when it
angora and wool. Lilian Bucke, Head of comes to design. Styles include Felted,
Buying for womenswear, menswear and ac- Berber, which is chunky and retro, Tweed
cessories at Jaeger explains why, “Wool is which combines dyed and undyed yarns,
one of the most versatile of the noble yarns. and Heather, which is smooth and elegant,
Its natural resistance to creasing, its superb as well as contemporary printed designs. A
drape and saturation of colour make it the range of types such as bonded, knitted, wo-
ultimate all round, all-seasonal fabric: from ven and tufted, mean it is easy to design
Left page:
lightweight tropical wools, right through to carpets that can match your consumers’
Main image: jumper, hat and
suiting, tweeds and coatings.” Bucke be- interiors and lifestyles.
gloves by Lowie. Inset images:
lieves a fashion-forward look can be easily The 2009 trend for nostalgic home-
stylish use of wool by Jaeger.
achieved. “Wool can be made sleek comforts has taken on a new edge that
through weaving and finishing processes. It sees it become sleeker, more luxurious
Right page:
Top three images: Gieves &
can adopt a satin sheen or a boucle texture. and contemporary. Combined with an on-
Hawkes are experts in stylish
It is incredibly versatile and can be used going interest in investment buying, this
use of wool as shown in the
across the board, in knitted fine-gauge meri- could mean fabrics such as wool have the
brand’s latest collection
no undergarments right through to heavy potential to be big money spinners this
Bottom three images:
winter twills,” she says. year. With John Lewis and Marks &
Striped Rug by The Natural Designer Bronwyn Lowenthal, owner of Spencer already planning to launch initia-
Rug Store, Tangerine Throw Lowie has long been a wool-convert, “I love tives in the autumn, now is the time to
and pastel Baby Blanket by working with wool. It’s comfortable, warm, ensure you are wool-savvy.
The Wool Company.
durable and can be made into a myriad of
Department Store Buyer 15
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