question time
MIKE PRETIOUS
appeal to the store’s target audi- carpets, lighting and haberdashery, slow-selling lines will be eliminated
LECTURER IN MARKETING AND
ence, fashion clothing has the it has become by default a reference by markdowns and the traditional
RETAILING AT QUEEN MARGARET
potential to generate greater sales point for potential purchasers in end-of-season sales. As a result of
UNIVERSITY, EDINBURGH.
and profit per square foot than most these categories. this, there are constantly ‘new’
other categories – though the Notwithstanding the evolution in ranges on offer, which makes it diffi-
Department stores, in common downside is considerable in terms of product ranges outlined above, de- cult to forecast the best and worst
with other large retailers, have a markdown costs if the buyer gets it partment stores can be slow to alter sellers with enough confidence to
history of realigning their merchan- wrong! Interestingly, the notable ex- their overall allocation of floor judge the amount of floor space
dise categories depending on ception to the increasing prevalence space. Whilst there are occasional they should occupy.
customer demand. Until the 1980s, of clothing in the department store ‘ad hoc’ changes, such as ‘pop-up’ In addition, the layout of many
for example, Selfridges still sold gar- merchandise mix has been the John departments for Christmas or Valen- retailers, particularly grocery stores,
dening and DIY products, which is dominated by aisles of shelves,
have long since been replaced by which are ideal for the use of
departments better suited to city-
“If a buyer correctly identifies the
planograms which give instruction
centre shoppers. At a more general
level, there has been a strategic brands that appeal to the store’s target
as to how many of each individual
product line to present per facing,
shift over the last two decades
amongst department stores in all
audience, fashion clothing has the
developed on the basis of rate of
sale and profitability at individual
market segments to focus on cloth-
potential to generate greater sales
item level. Fixturing in department
ing, with many becoming ‘houses
of brands’ where discerning con- than most other categories.”
stores is far more varied and less
flexible, and the cost of investment
sumers can select from a far greater in the image of a particular depart-
range than would be available in a ment militates against tactical
typical high street outlet. In this Lewis Partnership, which still has a tine’s Day, the level of detail in experimentation. This, whilst in
way department stores differentiate more obviously ‘home based’ offer, planning and presenting ranges is principle a ‘scientific’ category man-
themselves, becoming must-visit yet is one of the most successful not typically as sophisticated as in agement approach to buying and
‘destinations’, especially when ex- store groups. This can be attributed some retail sectors. This is partly due stock presentation, can be used for
clusive designer lines are featured. in part to JLP’s reputation for good to the nature of the buying process department store merchandise but
From an operational perspective, service and value, but by bucking and the stock-turn regime – given is much less prevalent or applicable
if a buyer correctly identifies the es- the trend and continuing to offering that many department store mer- than it is in other retail contexts.
tablished and new brands that an extensive range of, for example, chandise categories are seasonal,
10 Department Store Buyer
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