food/drink
NOODLEBOX ****
26 Salisbury Road, Cardiff. 029 2025 1007
Every month this page features writeups of three local establishments of the
eating variety. This is great and all but you people are reading a magazine that
you didn’t pay anything for, so you’re obviously some sort of slovenly cheapskate
who is no more likely to iron a shirt and go to a nice restaurant than you are to fly
to Pluto. To this end, Buzz decided to stay in the office and get a bunch of food
delivered from Noodlebox, which has been open a few months in Cardiff’s Cathays
district. We didn’t eat it in our dressing gowns while watching The X Factor but
otherwise we were just like you.
Heeeyyyyy, I’m just kidding. You are nice and Noodlebox is perfectly classy, plus
you can eat in there if you like. All the boxes cost a fiver, all sides £2.50; there are
meat, seafood, vegetarian and vegan options, and rice and soup boxes are also
offered. Between us we had the following: teriyaki box (beef in teriyaki sauce);
kare-lomen box (chicken and king prawns with Asian vegetables); Yakuza box (“a
criminal syndicate of Asian veggies and marinated tofu”) and the Nasi-seafood rice
box, (king prawns, calamari, vegetables and egg). Additionally, we split side dishes
of chicken and water chestnut dumplings, tempura king prawns and sweet potato
and sesame cakes between us.
As far as I can tell, we chose wisely. Everything is made with decent ingredients
and there is a lot of it. Secretary TC was a keen consumer of the dumplings,
editor Ben had his vegetarian preferences fulfilled by the criminal syndicate and
everyone thought the potato cakes rocked the house. There possibly could have
been a bit more beef and chicken in the dishes that contained said ingredients, but
pic: SIMON AYRE
all in all, this is a solid performer in its niche, and will probably continue to be a
staple stopoff for people in studentsville. They also deliver to basically anywhere in
Cardiff if you really are a lazy ass. NOEL GARDNER
MR SMITH’S ****
34 Woodville Road, Cardiff. 029 2064 4311
The people behind Buffalo and 10 Feet Tall are responsible for the introduction
of Cathays’ kitsch new bar Mr Smith’s. Taking over from the old Funky Buddha
Lounge, which always suffered from a cramped interior, their decision to gut the
insides and open out the main lounge seems to have paid off. Mr Smith’s is young
and fresh, with a cheeky interior that makes it more accessible than its siblings.
There’s the usual blend of classic and contemporary, as 60s chairs mix with
reclaimed bar stools and contemporary art. But there’s also a flat table videogame,
a wall made out of VHS tapes, and a bathroom that’s been plastered in graffiti. It’s
this playful side to the bar that stops it from feeling too pretentious, and gives it a
different atmosphere to its sisters in the city.
In keeping with the hip decor, the bar sells New York deli-style food – corn dogs,
crab cakes, cajun wedges and milkshakes – and an array of cocktails, spirits and
beers. I opted for the chilli on Cajun wedges (£6.95) which was tasty but a bit on
the puny side. My companion went for the corn dog (£4.95) and a round of chicken
wings (not yet priced), which were both delicious and a lot more substantial. They
may not have the balance right just yet, but Mr Smith’s is destined to be success-
ful. It’s an achingly cool bar in the heart of Cathays that serves decent food and
good drinks, and it will attract students from all corners of student life with its
accessible atmosphere and kitsch appeal. BEN BRYANT
pic: SIMON AYRE
THE BELL AT SKENFRITH *****
Skenfrith, Monmouthshire. 01600 750235
The Bell has feaured in pretty much all of the regional and national good food
and hotel guides and boasts an accolade of awards and stars, including the AA
***** Restaurant With Rooms rating and two AA rosettes. Run by William and
Janet Hutchings since 2001, it has recently undergone an extensive refurbishment,
and continues to attract visitors from around the globe. Beautifully decorated
throughout, The Bell provides an absolute haven away from the bustle of daily life,
with oak furniture, flagstones, muted colours and delicate lighting providing a
cosy, relaxed atmosphere.
Location wise, it couldn’t be more perfect, nestled in the beautiful Monmouthshire
countryside. Surrounded by fields, a stone’s throw from Monnow River and with
Offa’s dyke nearby, this is the most romantic, idyllic setting one could wish for.
As expected, the dining experience was faultless: all rustic charm, understated
service and an enormous wine and champagne list. Fantastic! You could easily
spend a month here just sampling the gigantic book of delights. The food selection
is equally impressive, all sourced locally and most grown in the organic garden be-
hind the hotel. We ate creamed watercress soup with Bower farm crème fraîche; a
warm, pickled fillet of mackerel with balsamic confit, beetroot and orange oil; and
a locally sourced, organic salmon and fillet of beef with summer garden vegetables,
truffled potatoes and a truffle port reduction. All perfectly cooked, served and pre-
sented. Two half bottles of 2006 Soave Classico and a 2007 Conchay y Toro Merlot
completed the evening. Desserts, unfortunately, were a mint too far.
Retiring to the lounge to finish the remaining wine, it was only fair to take advan-
tage of the many games available and thrash my dining partner at a very intense
game of scrabble. A beautiful place that will be revisited. ANTONIA LEVAY
BUZZ 36
NOVEMBER 2009.indd 36 28/10/09 11:51:11
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