Off the BT/TLjul09v1pp28-32:T&L 20/7/09 11:14 Page 28
ZULU
dawns
FromitsmovingZuluandBoerWarbattlefieldsites,to
ingthoughitwasatthetimeforthenation.
Neverbeforehadanativearmytakenonand
superlativewildlifeparks,stunningbeachesand
annihilatedsuchapowerful,well-armedand
magnificentscenery,SouthAfrica’sZuluKingdomis
trained fighting force. Yet, another battle
aworld-classdestination,whichwillsoonbewelcoming
foughtlaterthatday,January22,1879,less
than10milesawayhasgonedowninlegend.
theworld.Peter Ellegardreports
Victoria Cross
ThatbattlewasRorke’sDrift,celebratedfor
I
t was one of the most moving place130yearsagowerevividlybroughtto thefactthat139Britishsoldiersholedupin
momentsIcaneverrecall.Wewere lifebyourguide,usinghisbatonforeffectas atiny,fortifiedmissioncampheldoffthou-
satonchairsonahillsideplateau, hereconstructedthatinfamousdayinbreath- sandsofZuluattackersfor12hoursuntil
overlookingasweepingplaindom- taking detail. A few hundred yards away reinforcements arrived. Eleven Victoria
inatedbyacraggyhilldirectlyin anothergroupwasequallyfixatedastheir Crossmedalswereawardedtothevaliant
frontofusandwithalongescarp- guideregaledthesamedesperatetale. defenders, more than forany othersingle
mentinthedistance. Forwewereonthebattlefieldofoneof battleinhistory.Anditinspiredtheiconic
Small,whitestonecairnsdottedtheland- theworstdefeatseverinflictedontheBritish 1964blockbusterfilm, Zulu,whichstarred
scapeallaroundus,thehighestconcentration Empire – Isandlwana. An entire garrison a young Michael Caine. Whereas
aroundthebaseofthecrag,wheretherewere comprisingover1,000oftheBritishArmy’s Isandlwana,wherethreeVCswerewon,was
alsoseverallargermonuments.Therewasa finesthadbeenoverwhelmedandwipedout depictedinthefollow-upflop,Zulu Dawn.
chill in the December air despite it being by20,000Zuluwarriors,andthewhite-paint- So captivating was the recounting, it
summerintheSouthernHemisphere,butit edstonesmarkedwheretheyhadallfallen. almostfeltasthoughwewerewitnessingthe
wasnothingcomparedtothechillIfeltinmy Fewotherthanhistorianswouldrecognise battleitself.Butthenmuchofithadbeen
spine as the tragic events of that desolate thenameofthatbloodyepisodetoday,shock- passeddownbywordofmouthfromZulus
28 The Travel & Leisure Magazine July/August 2009
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