CE20_p28_p29_Travel_p30_p31 6/8/2009 13:21 Page 3
Travel Nepal
1,300 meters above sea level, to the short 3,440 meters. welcomed us. There were basic rooms
airstrip at Lukla, which is precariously Some of us experienced the effects of and communal toilet, shower and wash
balanced at 2886 meters. After leaving altitude. This can manifest in headaches, basins.
the airport, we wandered from a city of sickness and dehydration. Basically, if 30 The evening meals varied from Sherpa
combustive power, into a world of yaks, percent less oxygen is trying to service the Stew, rice-based dishes with yak meat,
asses and horses. blood, especially to the legs, the body eggs, home-grown potatoes, carrots and
Our leader was Prasant Subeli, his needs time to adapt. We had a two-day greens. Even apple pie was on offer. Next
partner Migma and two Sherpa’s, period to acclimatise at the Khumbu day, the tricky ascent to Ama Dablam
Chlongba and Kami, provided the Lodge. base camp. Upon achieving our target,
trekking expertise. Refreshed, we trudged on to Susan resisted Sir Edmund’s
A second team, transported our bags Tengboche Monastery at 3,867 meters. triumphant cry of
tied to yaks for the next night stop. From A lovely plateau with Everest in the conquest. The
Lukla, our trail undulated and crossed background. Here we befriended the mountain towered
swaying suspension bridges that spanned saffron-robed monks. After Tengboche, over us by
the gushing white water river, Dudh Kosi I walked in the foot steps of Sherpa 2,162
to reach Phakding. Chlongba, to learn about effortless
I kept my eyes glued to the ground. trekking. Making short steps is the
Susan warned me if anyone spotted a secret. After a while, this lead-
view, I was to stop. Otherwise I could footed ballerina experienced
twist or break an ankle along the rocky walking on rarified air.
paths. She also advised walk to the left of The Highland Sherpa
Buddhist prayer rocks and masts flying Lodge at Pangboche
prayer flags. was dominated by
Susan also stepped to the high side Ama Dablam.
when we were confronted by yaks. Everywhere we
Simple codes she had learned on the had stayed
Annapurna trail in 2008. a cup of
Sherpa men and women also get the tea
“after you” on narrow passes. We
encountered them carrying huge wicker
baskets full of merchandise. Large water
pipes and even long planks of wood.
Their strength and durability is
incredible.
Next day witnessed a
daunting traverse to
Namche
Bazaar
at
30 COTSWOLDESSENCE | SEPTEMBER ~ NOVEMBER 2009
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